Help with MDF

[BasementDweller]

I'm building a piece of furniture for my daughter. I'm thinking of making the top out of MDF as I need a completely smooth surface. I'd like to band the MDF in pine so that I can stain the banding to match the legs and apron of the piece. There is going to be a high contrast between the MDF and the pine so I'd like to tie that in to the top via the banding.

Here is my question, how do I attach the banding to the MDF? My thought is to just glue it on, but I wanted to run it past you guys/gals and see what you think.

Thanks for any assistance! I'm running low on time, so I need to make up my mind and get this thing finished!


BD

[siliconbauhaus]

You can glue it on but I would suggest laying a thin film of TB2 down first.Cover the whole edge and let it dry. Your glue joint will work much better.

If you go to the borg, they've started carrying spax screws (at least my one has) and spax makes a screw specifically for mdf. They're self drilling but as your going into the edge I would drill a pilot first. I used them and they caused no splitting btu you have to get them dead centre.

[scmhogg]

I would be wary of using glue alone. MDF is tough to glue. How about biscuits or router bits like these.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...band_ogee.html

Steve

[cabinetman]

I would use a single application of glue on a well covered edge. Gluing to a once glued and dried edge may not leave a smooth mating surface. No biscuits or any mechanical fasteners other than maybe a few brad nails to hold it in position. Then use clamps.
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[crokett]

You can use glue with nothing else needed, except the edges will soak up a lot of the glue and not leave much at the surface to stock the wood to. In my experience working with it, you should apply glue to the MDF edge, let it soak in (but not dry) then apply another coat. Then put glue on your banding and glue up.

[headhunter636]

Won't the glue cause the edges to swell a bit?

[RayintheUK]

Won't the glue cause the edges to swell a bit?

No.

Ray

[JimD]

If you have a biscuit joiner, I would use them. They help align the pieces during glueup and also add surface area. Otherwise, glue and brads if you want would work.

MDF is not terribly difficult to work with but the edges split apart pretty easily. That is the logic behind special screws and pilot holes mentioned above. MDF also does not have strength like plywood to hold a screw. MDF will also sag much easier than plywood or solid wood so if your unsupported span is more than a foot or so, you might want to consider adding support.

MDF is useful stuff, I am not trying to discourage its use, it just has its characteristics that need to be respected to get successful results. I use it for most of the louvers in the plantation shutters I'm making at the moment. They are tapered with a special router bit so I am finishing the routed surfaces. They REALLY soak up finish so it takes two coats of primer to get them ready for final finish. That is extra work but the end result is also very stable and straight. And cheap.

Jim

[RodKirby]

Glue and brads - I've done it a gazillion times - nothing's ever moved/fallen off

[Tamarack]

Just glue and clamp, you could reinforce the joint with Miller Dowels for a decorative touch that adds strength.

Paul

[scmhogg]

I withdraw my comment and defer to Rod. THE expert on MDFphemera.

Steve

[BasementDweller]

Thanks everyone!

I think I'm good to go, but something came up in the discussion about it not being strong. I'll have a piece at least 30"x30" that will need to be supported by a piano hinge at near 90 degrees.. is this a MDF deal breaker?

Another thought I just had, how thin can I get mdf? Perhaps I could use a plywood base with a piece of MDF on top (for the smooth surface) with the edging to hide the fact that two materials are used.


Then the piano hinge will go through the plywood and the MDF... Any thoughts, or am I over building this, will MDF be fine?



- BD

[Hoover]

I would defer to Rod's experience. I never had any luck with mdf.

[RayintheUK]

I'm building a piece of furniture for my daughter. I'm thinking of making the top out of MDF as I need a completely smooth surface. I'd like to band the MDF in pine so that I can stain the banding to match the legs and apron of the piece. ... Thanks for any assistance! I'm running low on time, so I need to make up my mind and get this thing finished!

I think I'm good to go, but something came up in the discussion about it not being strong. I'll have a piece at least 30"x30" that will need to be supported by a piano hinge at near 90 degrees.. is this a MDF deal breaker?

Another thought I just had, how thin can I get mdf? Perhaps I could use a plywood base with a piece of MDF on top (for the smooth surface) with the edging to hide the fact that two materials are used.

Right - time to stop prevaricating! You've already been advised how to properly attach the edge banding to the MDF field. Now you add to the equation that there will be a hinge involved, but don't suggest how much - if any - weight it will need to bear. The hinge will, obviously, be screwed into the pine banding, so the joint between the hinge side of the banding and the field MDF is the most critical, therefore the one that needs extra attention.

As it will be hidden by the hinge once attached, you can make any additional strengthening measures you like, as long as you mark out the hinge screw-holes first and avoid them. A piece of MDF 30" x 30" will not inherently sag if it's sufficiently thick - I'd use ¾" myself. If you go any thinner, then the mass of the field being reduced will affect the attachment of the edge banding, so think carefully about that. You certainly could do a laminated top, say ¼" MDF on ½" plywood, but if it's bedroom furniture, I stay away from ply because it smells - MDF doesn't.

When this "leaf" of MDF is in the "up" position, how will it be supported? Will the nature of the intended support evenly distribute the weight, or will it act as a fulcrum or lever, putting additional strain on the hinged side? My crystal ball has stopped, so I can't help further at this stage, but fullest details at the start do help greatly in trying to come up with a solution for you.

Ray

[cabinetman]

Going along with what Ray said, an accurate description makes understanding easier. IOW, you stated the top is 30"x30", but did not state how high (or thick) the edge banding will be.

From the limited description given could it be like a lift up desk top, or a storage chest? If similar, when the lid is down (horizontal), do the non-hinge sides touch any of the sides of what we're talking about?
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