Tinting Watco Natural Dainish Oil

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  • Bruce Cohen
    Veteran Member
    • May 2003
    • 2698
    • Nanuet, NY, USA.
    • BT3100

    #1

    Tinting Watco Natural Dainish Oil

    I've been using Watco Oil for years and have found the results to be exactly what I want. The only exception is when I want a bit of color added to the oil. I find Watco's colors (Cherry, Walnut) to be off (too dark, red, brown etc.)

    I'm sure there's a way to tint the oil, except I have to plead ignorance as to what to use.

    Hopefully, one of you guys have the answer.

    Your held, as always is greatly appreciated.

    Bruce
    "Western civilization didn't make all men equal,
    Samuel Colt did"
  • master53yoda
    Established Member
    • Oct 2008
    • 456
    • Spokane Washington
    • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

    #2
    I have tinted it using my wife"s oil paints mostly either burnt siena or a very dark brown or black. I read about it in Woodsmith I think but i couldn't find the article but I'll keep looking.

    Any way it seems to work quite well.
    Art

    If you don't want to know, Don't ask

    If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      Watco is primarily a mix of an oil, varnish and mineral spirits. It's a simple mix that you could make yourself. It would be less expensive and you could change the mixing ratios to suit the project.

      Being an oil base solution, you could tint "natural" with any pigmented oil base stain, or some paints, or a tint you can buy at home centers called "Tints All". There are many tints that are compatible with different bases, so reading their labels will tell if they are proprietary to oil base, water, or acetone base (lacquer thinner).

      If you chose to shade an existing packaged oil base stain/finish, adding small increments at a time will prevent "over-coloring". If you do samples first (which is a smart idea), use cooking measuring spoons to keep track of the mix ratio to the base being added to. Then when you find one mix that floats your boat, increase the ratios proportionally. It's also a good idea to take the samples and apply the final finish as you would on the project, as adding topcoats if any, may change the color/effect. The Watco "Oil Finishes" can be a stand alone finish, so let your color samples completely cure (dry).

      Sherwin-Williams sells a clear oil base sealer, which can be used similarly to Watco Natural. They also carry their line of tint bases which work very well in that product, or any oil base product.

      Depending on the specie of wood you're using and the degree of sanding you've done, the smoother some species are sanded can change the penetration levels of stains and dyes. For example, the same specie sanded with 120x can look different than if sanded with 220x when a stain or dye is applied. It's imperative that the results you achieve with an acceptable sample are used as a basis for the project piece.
      .

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