New double doors into my workshop

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  • tohellwithuga
    Established Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 234
    • GA

    New double doors into my workshop

    Ok, so, this is not really woodworking, but it is a shop related project (maybe this belongs in "Shop Setup, Layout, and Design"?)...

    ** My actual questions are at the end of this post **

    So, I have a 20x20 workshop in my basement, but the only door is a ridiculously tiny 'builder's special' 32" (I think). I actually had to disassemble my work bench outside and reassemble it to get it in when we moved in last year.



    Well, I have a 72" wide window a couple of feet to the right of that door. Since I am also putting in a bedroom into the basement in a room that doesn't have a window, I decided that I would take out this window, relocate it to the bedroom, and put up some double doors in it's place.

    I found a set of double 30" exterior doors on Craigslist for $50, but they didn't have a frame. Well, being the rookie that I am, I bought them anyway. Months later, I was still looking for a frame to put them in. The prehung 6" frames were going to run $200 from the cheapest place I could find, and even then, there's no guarantee that I could get the doors perfect.

    Anyway, I started looking at prices for a set of prehung doors with the frame, and found a surplus store that was asking $300. I figured this was better than paying $200 for just the frame, and cussing my way through a day or two of shimming/routing/etc. to get my slabs to fit.

    Well, I was about to call the surplus store and tell them I wanted the doors, but I decided to try one more time to call local Lowes to see what they had. Well, it took 7 stores, but I finally got a hit:





    -----

    Ok, so, here's where I need help:

    1) I had originally planned to reuse the window header for the door header, since my original doors were not as wide as the window. However, now, my doors are 3" wider than my current window opening (72" opening, 75" doors).

    The header over the current window has two trimmer studs on each side. My step-dad said that I could just take one of the trimmer studs out on each side, and put double king studs on the outside, as long as I screw everything together well. I'm not sure if that's correct, though.

    I guess it really depends on what the requirements are for a 75" opening. Does anyone know if dual trimmers are required? Maybe the builder just added them to take up space, instead of actually being structural? Here is a photo of the current header:



    2) We're trying to figure out what to do outside the double doors. It is under a deck that just has pine straw right now, however, I really don't want to be tracking pine straw into my workshop every time I go through the doors. So, we are thinking of pouring a small concrete landing as wide as the doors, and maybe 2-3' deep (we don't want a large/full concrete patio, mostly b/c our kids have a swing that they use under the deck).

    A seccond option would be to add some pavers the same size as the concrete pad would be (door width, 2-3' depth). But, we are wondering whether pavers would be a good choice right outside the workshop. We're just not sure if they would withstand the traffic/tools/etc.
  • jackellis
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 2638
    • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
    • BT3100

    #2
    I can't help you with your questions, but if you handle is any indication, I am very relieved to know that I'm not the only alum from the North Avenue Trade school on this forum.

    For all you UGA fans, this is NOT a political commentary.

    Comment

    • tohellwithuga
      Established Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 234
      • GA

      #3
      jackellis - What's the Good Word???



      ---

      So, not that this is necessarily an authoritative reference, but this article indicates that anything over 5 ft requires 2 trimmers:

      http://www.rd.com/guide-how-to-build...le18202-1.html

      It also looks like it's right on the border between double 2x10 and 2x12 headers, so I should probably just tear it down and (hopefully) reuse it for the bedroom window.

      I guess that answers my 1st question...

      Comment

      • crokett
        The Full Monte
        • Jan 2003
        • 10627
        • Mebane, NC, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        You need 2 trimmers. Also, when in doubt go bigger. Use 2x12s for headers.

        I would not do pavers as a shop entry. I would either do a ground-level deck or concrete patio as you had planned.
        David

        The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

        Comment

        • tohellwithuga
          Established Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 234
          • GA

          #5
          Originally posted by crokett
          You need 2 trimmers. Also, when in doubt go bigger. Use 2x12s for headers.

          I would not do pavers as a shop entry. I would either do a ground-level deck or concrete patio as you had planned.
          2 trimmers it is, w/ a 2x12 header.

          Thanks for the opinion on the pavers. I hadn't thought about the ground level deck, I'm going to have to give that some though / serious consideration.

          Comment

          • tohellwithuga
            Established Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 234
            • GA

            #6
            So, any idea if I am going to be able to remove the current header and throw up the new (larger, 2x12) header without incident? It's an exterior wall, and I'm not really sure how I would go about temporarily jacking/bracing it while I put in the hew header. I can add extra king studs on the outside, I'm just not sure about the top plate. Would it be ok for a couple minutes while I took down the old header and put up the new?

            Obviously, I would have the new header built and ready to slap into place immediately...

            Comment

            • LarryG
              The Full Monte
              • May 2004
              • 6693
              • Off The Back
              • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

              #7
              In your last picture, it looks like the framing for the floor above is spanning from left to right, parallel to the exterior wall. If so, and if that is also the case for all other framing above (additional floors, roof, deck, whatever), then this is a non-bearing wall and you shouldn't have much trouble.

              However, even a non-bearing wall must carry its own dead weight so when you kick out the props you are bound to get at least a small amount of settling. I would have one or two bottle jacks at the ready, and would cut all the studs and trimmers to the correct lengths ahead of time, so that when you get them into the wall and plumbed you will know that the header is at the correct elevation.
              Larry

              Comment

              • tohellwithuga
                Established Member
                • Jan 2007
                • 234
                • GA

                #8
                You are correct, the load bearing walls run perpendicular to this wall, but I thought all exterior walls were load bearing (to some extent).

                Anyway, I will have everything cut and ready to install before I remove anything. I think my step-dad has some jacks. What exactly would I be jacking, though? Would that be to jack the header up back into place if the top plate sagged a bit?

                Comment

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