Rustoleum hammered

[Rich P]

Does anyone have experience with this product as far as durability goes? I have a PM 66 saw cabinet that needs major help and their gold color is a pretty close match to the stock PM gold. I'm not trying to get an original look, just control some rusting and improve the costmetics. My local OSH has this in quarts so I'm thinking about using a spray gun.

[Hellrazor]

I just cleaned up and painted a 30 year old craftsman tool chest with it. It survived 30+ days without issue so far.

[schloff]

I used it on a toy shotgun that my boy and I made from poplar. It's holding up nicely a year later, under the care of an active 7 year old.

That was on bare air dried wood. I would think that it would hold up better on metal, as it was intended.

It is a really cool finish, too.

[Uncle Cracker]

Personally, I would avoid thinning it, but you might have to to spray it. I don't recall what it says on the can about thinning, but I'd check it out first.

[HarmsWay]

I used a spray can version to refinish some outdoor lights. Still good after 5 years or so but they don't get handled like a saw. On the other hand that's already about 3 years longer than the factory finish.

Bob

[LinuxRandal]

Other then machinery grey, the hammered paints, seem to be the most preferred for used equipment refurbishing on one of my newsgroups. I am debating between hammered bronze in a can or quart myself. (OLD Craftsman toolchest I plan on refurbing)

[Rich P]

It's funny, I recall the label on the can at OSH talking about thinning and spraying but the documents at the RustOleum site says brush or roller...go figure. As we all know they do sell the stuff in rattle cans.

Thinning is with xylol but the label download from the RO site calls for "axylol" which does not exist...again, go figure.

I had not noticed before but the fine print says "no priming needed" and then "do not prime". So if I prime does that mean the finish will fail? (Rhetorical question, sorry.)

You would think the chemists who formulate this type of thing would be able to communicate with the folks who write the instructions for us mere mortals.

If the "no prime" claim is valid and the finish has the surface blemish hiding properties, sounds like a winner for old, pitted metal surfaces.

More thoughts and experiences are welcome.

[BobSch]

Thinning is with xylol but the label download from the RO site calls for "axylol" which does not exist...again, go figure.

I'll bet "axylol" is a typo. It's easy to hit A while typing a Z.

[Hellrazor]

Other then machinery grey, the hammered paints, seem to be the most preferred for used equipment refurbishing on one of my newsgroups. I am debating between hammered bronze in a can or quart myself. (OLD Craftsman toolchest I plan on refurbing)

That is what I used on my craftsman toolchest. It was really close to the original paint. I also bought the trigger sprayer for the cans.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...GNMZH1JWC8BCMC

[Tom Slick]

I spray it not thinned with a detail gun and it works well. The cans also work well.
On the other hand, hammerite in a spray can is terrible because it clogs the nozzle constantly. Out of a gun it's fine.

[LinuxRandal]

That is what I used on my craftsman toolchest. It was really close to the original paint. I also bought the trigger sprayer for the cans.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...GNMZH1JWC8BCMC

Don't show me the trigger, show me the chest.

I clicked on the link before reading it, as I haven't a clue how old mine is (won't till I get it stripped).

[ironhat]

My experience is on a crawl space, metal access door and jamb. No primer and two good coats. The strapping that it gets from the forsythia doesn't seem to have hurt it.

[Pappy]

I used it on a set of metal picnic table legs. After 5-6 years of exposure to weather the finish is a little dulled but holding up good. I think I primed with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.