Changing table finish

[thrytis]

I'm currently working on a changing table, with the due date rapidly approaching. I've started thinking about finishing now so that i will have the supplies i need and have tested before i am ready to start. I'm still a novice, especially when it comes to finishing, so i would appreciate comments.

It is made out of soft maple. I want to add a little bit of amber color to it to match the crib, and finish with a satin coat. I was thinking of a base coat of shellac (dewaxed), both inside and out, to seal and add color, followed by a satin lacquer on the outside only. The choice of lacquer is largely speed (quick dry, no sanding between coats except to fix problems) plus future repairs. I was going to try spraying with my Critter spray gun (probably on the larger side for this gun, but hopefully doable with some patience), rolling it out to the driveway on dollies to spray.

Assuming this sounds reasonable, what lacquer to you recommend? Is Deft as good as any (and easy to find locally), or is it worth getting something like Target Coatings USL/EM6000 lacquer i've heard recommended, or something else? Can i do all coats of satin, or should use gloss except for the final coat?

Here it is in the current state:


Thanks!

[RAV2]

Do the fine finish on the lower end as you wish.

For the top, go with a closely matched formica (laminate) - the top gets all the use and needs to be able to be quickly cleaned.

[Jim Frye]

RE: Critter...

I think this is a bit of a large project for a Critter gun. I have sprayed lacquer outside and you will need need to push a lot of material volume to not get orange peel. I don't know where you live, but you may need to adjust your thinner depending on the humidity and temperature. Also, outside, your over spray issues are multiplied. I'd suggest testing on some scrap maple before attacking the table. If you find the Critter coming up too small for the task, I might suggest a touch up gun instead. I bought a really nice one at Harbor Freight for $20 and it is all nickle plated brass and aluminum. It is a bottom cup model, but top cup touch up guns can be had at Lowes also.

[thrytis]

I think this is a bit of a large project for a Critter gun. I have sprayed lacquer outside and you will need need to push a lot of material volume to not get orange peel. I don't know where you live, but you may need to adjust your thinner depending on the humidity and temperature. Also, outside, your over spray issues are multiplied. I'd suggest testing on some scrap maple before attacking the table. If you find the Critter coming up too small for the task, I might suggest a touch up gun instead. I bought a really nice one at Harbor Freight for $20 and it is all nickle plated brass and aluminum. It is a bottom cup model, but top cup touch up guns can be had at Lowes also.

I'll pick up a small can of lacquer and play around with the Critter some. I just got it a few weeks ago when Amazon had a sale, and i haven't used yet.

Is the HF gun you have either this one or this one? My compressor should be able to handle the first one, but the second one would be too much.

Is it difficult getting a decent finish brushing lacquer? I think i've read stuff to that effect before.

Thanks!

[drumpriest]

When I did this one for my niece, I used arm-r-seal, with many extra coats on the top.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=11050

But if I were to do it again, I'd use spray lacquer (water based acrylic) for sure. If you are close to the due date, this is especially a good idea, as it'll take roughly a month for an oil base to fully cure (flashing off all of those nasty solvents). I currently spray EPL, known as emtech production lacquer, found here....

http://www.targetcoatings.com/emtech-6000.html

but you need a HVLP, though an inexpensive one works great. (rockler, woodcraft, HF, sub 100$ turbine system).

The trick to this stuff is to spray it in a warm environment, which is pretty easy to do in august. The coats dry in about 30 minutes, and totally cures in 72 hours, safe for the little tike.

I use this gun, but bought it when they were 40$. They often are on sale for 80$ or less.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10469&filter=hvlp

Pretty much the same gun can be had from woodcraft and harbor freight, whichever is cheapest at the moment works fine. No thinking required, and super smooth finish is easily acheived.

[docrowan]

+1 on the gun drumpriest recommends. It does a great job. Haven't used it for lacquer, but cheap latex enamel goes on very smooth. Transfer efficiency is very good, too. I got mine for $60 at Harbor Freight, but all the retailers have figured out they've got a good thing and the prices have come up.

[cabinetman]

I would also vote for a laminate top as suggested. I would also do the leading edges. That would be your most forgiving surface. In drastic cases, it can be relaminated in less than an hour if need be.

As for a wood finish with some color, you could use a thinned version of an oil base stain to introduce a slight color tone. As a topcoat, find out what your finish is before buying. If it's a true lacquer it will be thinned with lacquer thinner. If it's a waterbased product it will be thinned with water. Check the label. Any and all products that are thinned with water are basically a waterbased polyurethane. Manufacturers can call their product anything they care to to sell it.

Once the stain has cured, you can spray it with either true lacquer or waterbased polyurethane. Lacquer would dry the quickest, but WB poly is fast also. As for durability, there are WB polyurethanes that are equal to nitrocellulose lacquer.

You could spray either with a cheap $20 siphon gun sold at HF and get a beautiful finish. For whatever gun you decide on, practice with your equipment, gun settings, and mix ratios, for the material you are using, just to get familiar with using it.

Just a note about WB poly. You're less likely to have blushing, overspray, or orange peel problems, and clean-up is a snap.
.

[thrytis]

I was trying to avoid buying spray equipment, but i guess the Rockler/HF HVLP is a possibility. Can the EPL or other waterbase finishes Cabinetman suggests be sprayed inside? That may be useful if the weather doesn't cooperate?

Any comments about using just satin for all coats vs gloss with the final coat as satin?

Thanks! I appreciate the input from everyone!

[cabinetman]

I was trying to avoid buying spray equipment, but i guess the Rockler/HF HVLP is a possibility. Can the EPL or other waterbase finishes Cabinetman suggests be sprayed inside? That may be useful if the weather doesn't cooperate?

Any comments about using just satin for all coats vs gloss with the final coat as satin?

Thanks! I appreciate the input from everyone!

You could use a brushing lacquer or brush on WB poly. If each application is sanded, the last application can be dressed to a smooth finish. Using a gloss for subcoats is a good idea, but not absolutely necessary.

If you spray inside, HVLP would produce less overspray than a siphon gun. With either though you should have a way to contain/exhaust the overspray. Just being ventilated doesn't stop a cloud from forming, or overspray getting on anything. Exhaust fans to the outside, and a way for clean air to enter would be ideal.
.

[drumpriest]

As Cabinetman suggests, you need to contain the spray. I do so in the winter by hanging a large curtain in a L shape that prevents the spray from getting all over my equipment, and having a 20" box fan with a fine furnace filter there running to scrub the air of it. I would also highly recommend using a respirator for this task, inside or out.

It is a bit of an investment, but it can take finishing from weeks to a couple of days, and seriously can increase you enjoyment of wood working if finishing isn't something you relish. (which is the case for many of us)

[thrytis]

Thanks! I'll probably just spray outside, but the inside is a nice option if there is a period of bad weather.

I appreciate the information from everyone. I'll may have more questions once i start experimenting.

[Jim Frye]

HF Touch Up Gun...

I'll pick up a small can of lacquer and play around with the Critter some. I just got it a few weeks ago when Amazon had a sale, and i haven't used yet.

Is the HF gun you have either this one or this one? My compressor should be able to handle the first one, but the second one would be too much.

Is it difficult getting a decent finish brushing lacquer? I think i've read stuff to that effect before.

Thanks!

Mine is from 2002 and is model number 00086. It looks like either one of the ones you listed. It is listed at 33 -50 psi, 7 oz. cup, 2.8 cfm @ 33 psi and 4.0 cfm @ 50 psi.

[Papa]

Changing Table

I hate to disagree with everyone else, but considering what the top surface will be subjected to (especially if the baby is male), I wouldn't use anything but wipe-on poly. I'm about to refinish a kitchen table that we had done in lacquer about five years ago. The original poly finish lasted 40 years. The lacquer has heat and moisture spots after five.

Papa (The Ancient Mariner)

[drumpriest]

Papa, was that nitro lacquer or acrylic lacquer? Big difference. Also, I'd suggest using a changing pad. ;-)

They made some nice U shaped pad pillows that you can secure the kid into for changing, I designed my top to nestle one of those.

[thrytis]

Just an update on this...

The EM6000 lacquer sprayed fine from the Critter without thinning on test pieces. It goes on a little rough, but it is nice and smooth when dried. The problem came getting a nice even coat when scaling it up to the project size. I hadn't gotten to the lacquer yet, but with the shellac i was either missing spots or getting it on too thick so it was running. With a pattern of only 3.5" and overlapping spacing of under 2", it would take a better hand than mine to apply an even coat. I ended up getting the HF gun, but probably will be using the Critter still for more detailed parts where the smaller pattern is an advantage.

Thanks again for all of your input.