How would you?

[Scoly2803]

I've been working on this center section for a while and all along trying to decide how to build the top (63x25x1.5). First thought was Walnut ply with a solid edge attached. Very little of the top will show once the tv is positioned but I keep coming back to using walnut.

Now I'm considering making a panel with 1/2" thick planks and letting it just sit on 2 layers of ply. There would have to be edging attached that would hide the ply. Am I headed for trouble with expansion/contraction? How should I go about attaching the edging?

Other ideas for this top?



Thanks
Steve

[Uncle Cracker]

There is all kinds of material that you could veneer with walnut... ply, MDF, even good grade particle board. Veneer can be attached in several ways, but I'd probably use contact cement.

[JR]

There's no reason you couldn't go down that route. I did a table last year with alder ply on top, AC (or something like that) ply on bottom and layer of alder veneer on the bottom of that. The alder edge was attached with two rows of biscuits.

BTW - I really like walnut. It is very easy to work with and has wonderful figure.

JR

[cabinetman]

I would go with the Walnut plywood and a solid wood edge. You only need to glue and clamp the edging.

As for veneering a substrate, by the time you buy the veneer (which could cost what the Walnut ply would cost), you could just go with the plywood. Veneering a substrate entails buying the veneer, substrate, and glue, and it likely wouldn't turn out as nice as a sheet of Walnut ply. Using a pieced top on a substrate is a waste of solid wood, IMO. You'd also have the possibility of E&C.
.

[Uncle Cracker]

Veneering a substrate entails buying the veneer, substrate, and glue

...unless you've already got most of it...

[crokett]

How heavy is that TV and why do you think you need two layers of ply? The side panels on those shelves would support a single layer of ply just fine. The solid wood edge will also help.

[Scoly2803]

The 2 layers of ply is just to get the top to 1.5"thick.
If I go with walnut ply and a 1.5" edging it would give the effect since I did put a 1" stretcher above the doors
Veneering is a thought but I have nothing necessary for doing it and no experience. Have read a bit on it and at some time will probably give it a try but this just doesn't seem like the time.
Thanks for the direction. Will probably go with 3/4 walnut ply(why waste the wood) and edging.
Steve

[Scoly2803]

I'm finally to building the top and after a discussion with the better half it seems she wants the top appear to be hardwood(I lean that way also). The wood I buy is rough 5/4. Once joined and planed I get right at .95" thick but joining 64" on my machine is a struggle and getting the .95" thick for that length is a challenge also. My thinking is to build the top with ~1/4"x 40" slats like a wood floor where the boards are staggered and glue them to a substate. They would be joined with tongue and groove along each side and both ends. Then I can add the 2" edging using t&g also.
Once again I need to know if this will hold up long run or if there is big potential for expansion/contraction problems.
Thanks
Steve

[cabinetman]

I'm finally to building the top and after a discussion with the better half it seems she wants the top appear to be hardwood(I lean that way also). The wood I buy is rough 5/4. Once joined and planed I get right at .95" thick but joining 64" on my machine is a struggle and getting the .95" thick for that length is a challenge also. My thinking is to build the top with ~1/4"x 40" slats like a wood floor where the boards are staggered and glue them to a substate. They would be joined with tongue and groove along each side and both ends. Then I can add the 2" edging using t&g also.
Once again I need to know if this will hold up long run or if there is big potential for expansion/contraction problems.
Thanks
Steve

I'll go back and state again the way I would do it is Walnut plywood and a solid wood edge. IMO, that will look better than adding solid wood to a substrate. By the time you level and sand that lamination, the trouble you will go through will not appear as nice.

There are a few ways you could do this. You could glue 1/4" Walnut plywood to a 3/4" plywood substrate, and add 1 1/2" solid wood on the edge. This would be the least expensive way to go. Or, use 3/4" Walnut plywood and just add the solid wood edge. If you are concerned about deflection, you could glue 3/4" Walnut plywood to a sheet of 3/4 plywood as a substrate and add a solid wood edge.

You stand to have more problems using a solid wood surface than plywood. If I prepared two identical size tops/shelves, one with hardwood plywood, and one with solid wood, they would look the same. The plywood top would have very tight flitch joints that will never separate. That's just my opinion.
.

[Scoly2803]

Thanks again! Hate having someone restate their opinion but it does show how strongly you feel and I do really appreciate it.
Having never used walnut ply I have had concerns about the finish being similar to the finish on the hardwood. My limited experience with ply is that it doesn't take the finish as well but that is not with a quality hardwood veneered ply. Your reply eases my mind and makes me think that finish will not be the problem that I have feared. Correct?

While I have your attention another question. The plan is to use inset finger pulls for the doors and drawers similar to these:
http://www.vandykes.com/product/cl15...ush-ring-pull1
but $11.99 each has me searching for another source. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Steve

[JR]

+1 on cab'man's reply. What you're proposing just doesn't come together in my mind.

Check out walnut plywood at a quality supplier. You may be surprised at how good it looks. It should finish nicely, matching up with the hardwood trim.

I don't think you absolutely need a 1 1/2" thick panel. It may be pleasing to the eye for the trim to be 1 1/2" thick, but the field should not require it unless you plan to put a big safe or an anvil on top.

As far as joining the trim to the field, I'd use biscuits or dowels. Something that will locate the edge of the trim to the surface of the field.

JR

[ironhat]

OK, I probably have less right than anybody to make a suggestion due to inexperience. That said, the entire unit has a soft contemporary appearance - very appealing. For the TV's shelf you could make the width just slightly wider (L to R) than the TV itself. You would support the shelf just off of where it is now by just a couple of inches using 1.5" x 1.5" x T"( T='s the width of the door stiles as a complement to each other). You would require several of these to support the weight, attaching with screws from the top. This would also require a nosing piece of walnut and the blocks - maybe 3 - would be visible from the front. I would paint the others flat black (perhaps). OK, it's out there. For that matter it looks really nice the way that it is.

[cabinetman]

The veneer faces for the "A" side of the Walnut plywood are closely selected for match in both color and grain, and are of high quality. The cost will surely offset the labor and materials of a glued up panel.
.

[Scoly2803]

Thanks to all. Makes my life a lot easier.
Steve

[Scoly2803]

Finally got around to the top and took ya'lls suggestions. The Walnut ply is really nice and should blend well. Used .25" ply glued to a .75 ply base. I'm now ready to add the edge pieces (.75x2") to conceal the ply edges and give the appearanceof 2" thick top.
Current plan is .25x.25 grooves in the top and the edging with a spline but I wonder if that is necessary. I could just sand the edges smooth and glue.
Suggestions?
Thanks
Steve