Post finish fillers

[poolhound]

I have always used fillers that are applied during the pre finish stages and will take both stain and finish.

I have already applied 2 seal coats and one top coat to a box but manged to take out some chips from the rather delicate veneer. The figure will easily hide a well matched filler but have always been wary of the types that say to use only after applying the topcoat. I take it that they say this as they have some oil content that will prevent them from fully hardening and therefore wont take finish properly.

If they are applied like this how do they blend with the topcoat as the texture and sheen will differ. Can I apply more topcoat or just paste wax to blend the surface.

the finish I am using is a tung oil, BLO and poly mix and I usually put a final coat or two of Tung/BLO/Wax mix and then end with some paste wax.

[cabinetman]

The filler I use is a solvent base (turpentine or mineral spirits), and I use it only on bare wood. It comes in colors and natural can be tinted. Using after finish has been applied may leave it very noticeable. With your scheduled finish I would leave the wax out. Wax would make subsequent finishing very difficult. If I use a wipe on like you suggest, I just stick with that and get good results.
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[wardprobst]

You could burn in a shellac stick if you are familiar with that, you could use hard or soft wax sticks if you are not.
DP

[poolhound]

These are both good general suggestions but what I am trying to figure out is if I fill with a "post-finish" product how do I match the fill with the rest of the finish. Not the color but just the way it looks i.e. what would happen if I added more topcoat on top and if I dont will it look different and stand out like a sore thumb.

[cabinetman]

These are both good general suggestions but what I am trying to figure out is if I fill with a "post-finish" product how do I match the fill with the rest of the finish. Not the color but just the way it looks i.e. what would happen if I added more topcoat on top and if I dont will it look different and stand out like a sore thumb.

For small areas fill sticks that are like crayons work very well. There are many types and brands. Once you use a color matched fill, it will match in color and depth, it becomes not noticeable. Finish can be applied over the fill.

If the area is larger, piecing in a section of veneer to match may be the way to go.
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[poolhound]

For small areas fill sticks that are like crayons work very well. There are many types and brands. Once you use a color matched fill, it will match in color and depth, it becomes not noticeable. Finish can be applied over the fill.

If the area is larger, piecing in a section of veneer to match may be the way to go.
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Thanks CMAN I havent tried those. This is and example of the type of putty I was talking about. I have used it before in inconspicuous places so its not been much of an issue. As my current challenge is with the lid of a box it will be a focal point of the piece.

[Mr__Bill]

I think fill sticks and Minwax putty is the same thing. It's soft and will dent or gouge out of a surface that is handled. I would use the shellac sticks and practice a lot first. They give a fill that is much harder and takes a finish as long as it's not an penetrating oil finish. You also want to make sure you have a good surface for it to adhere too.

I think it would be interesting to see some before and after pictures and a description of just how you did the repair.

Bill

[cabinetman]

Thanks CMAN I havent tried those. This is and example of the type of putty I was talking about. I have used it before in inconspicuous places so its not been much of an issue. As my current challenge is with the lid of a box it will be a focal point of the piece.

The putty you linked to is basically the same as the fill sticks but a different consistency.
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