Do you still use 'Wood' Screws?

[Slik Geek]

I'm using conventional wood screws less as time goes on. I use drywall style screws frequently now.

Is it just my imagination, or are the imported wood screws made from weak steel? I bought some #8 x 1-1/2" awhile back at a big box home improvement place. The heads snapped off from about half of them as I attempted to tighten them. Most of the wood screws that I have now were inherited from my carpenter / woodworker grandfather who bought them 1980 and earlier, so I'm guessing that they are U.S. made? I don't recall having such problems with those screws breaking.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Maybe I had a bad couple lots, but after torquing the heads off too many drywall screws, I've sworn them off for anything other than drywall. I use the gold deck screws for almost all construction where nailing isn't the best choice. Seems I only use wood screws anymore when doing hinges or other brackets with a countersink that requires wood screw heads for flush seating.

[mschrank]

Maybe I had a bad couple lots, but after torquing the heads off too many drywall screws, I've sworn them off for anything other than drywall. I use the gold deck screws for almost all construction where nailing isn't the best choice. Seems I only use wood screws anymore when doing hinges or other brackets with a countersink that requires wood screw heads for flush seating.

Note that I did not change my signature line for this post...it's been there for several months. Obviously, this is a sore point with me.
True drywall screws (usually flat black with coarse threads) are fairly weak and prone to breakage when used in woodworking. "Drywall type" wood screws are much stronger. I think this is what most of the folks are referring to in th above posts.

I used true drywall screws for several years on wood projects and had problems. The biggest problems with heads breaking off occured if I had to remove a screw.

I've pretty much switched over completely to square-drive screws from McFeely's. They have $1 shipping right now, btw.

[pelligrini]

I don't use wood screws all that often, I prefer to see no fasteners in projects. I do use a lot of drywall screws in shop jigs and other utility projects. I mostly use a flip drill-counter sink/driver in my cordless driver. If I'm drawing parts togeather I will also counterbore the idle part the diameter of the outside threads. It adds a step, but things usually go togeather better.

For wood screws that will be exposed, especially brass; after using a tapered countersink I will screw in a steel woodscrew & not quite seat it. Then I'll remove it and put in the finish screw. Sometimes I'll use some wax on a screw if it is difficult to get in.

[poolhound]

I've pretty much switched over completely to square-drive screws from McFeely's. They have $1 shipping right now, btw.

I was on their site earlier and didnt see any shipping offer other than their standard DIY dozen for $20 and get free shipping. Is there an offer code?

[HauntedBranch]

Regarding McFeely's: the code is M9SAWDM and it is taken at checkout. $1 shipping per order. I saw this advertised but the website is not announcing it. It just worked for me.

Phil

[Tom Miller]

I use screws in "shop-grade" construction, and either use McFeely's square drive, or bronze-colored Phillips-head deck screws in all lengths. The latter is mostly due to availability. I use the McFeely's if there's a chance I'll be taking the screws out, or if I think a little more strength is in order.

When joining two pieces with a screw, I always drill a larger shank hole in the top piece so the threads don't bite. If you're using the right deck screw on material of the correct thickness (i.e deck boards), you shouldn't have to do this, as there should be no threads in the top piece. But it never seems to work out that way for me, since I'm not using the right screw for the job.

Regards,
Tom