Touching up a commercial finish

[dlminehart]

I have a dresser satin finished with catalyzed lacquer, with some worn spots on top near the front where wet glasses were set. Looks almost like the lacquer is gone in a circular pattern.

I'd rather not refinish the entire top for a 3"x3" area. I'm wondering whether I can use a lacquer thinner on the general area (say 6"x6") to dissolve the finish, then spread it around so the entire area is covered, albeit a little less thickly. I'd then use very fine sandpaper to even out the surface to match the surrounding untouched area. (Ideally!)

Or, does dissolving the finish somehow change it chemically, so it won't harden again? Or so it won't sand to the same reflectivity?

[cabinetman]

I have a dresser satin finished with catalyzed lacquer, with some worn spots on top near the front where wet glasses were set. Looks almost like the lacquer is gone in a circular pattern.

I'd rather not refinish the entire top for a 3"x3" area. I'm wondering whether I can use a lacquer thinner on the general area (say 6"x6") to dissolve the finish, then spread it around so the entire area is covered, albeit a little less thickly. I'd then use very fine sandpaper to even out the surface to match the surrounding untouched area. (Ideally!)

Or, does dissolving the finish somehow change it chemically, so it won't harden again? Or so it won't sand to the same reflectivity?

Lacquer thinner will do just that...dissolve the finish. You won't be able to spread anything around. Anyway, how do you know that the finish is lacquer? If it is, for a fix you could spray lacquer to the affected area. Once you have enough build up, and each coat has cured, you could feather the finish with wet sanding up to smooth grits. If you have enough finish on the rest of the top, it could be sanded and steel wool used on the whole top.

IF the top is not lacquer, don't spray lacquer on it. IMO, you would be better off by touching up the area, and then applying a finish to the entire top.
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[dlminehart]

I checked with the manufacturer, who said they'd used catalyzed lacquer as a finish.

I figured that "dissolving" that finish meant putting it back into solution, with the original solids mixed in with the new liquid solvent. Then, when the newly-added solvent evaporated, the original solids would again be left. Basically the way it was originally applied: solids mixed in a solvent, which then evaporated away.

I figured the trick would be to apply the solvent with something that wouldn't itself absorb the solvent+solids, removing them from the surface. Or at least something that would do minimal absorption. Maybe drip the solvent on, rub it around with the tip of one's rubber glove?

I've read somewhere that Deft lacquer is a catalyzed lacquer. HD has the brush-on variety. Perhaps I could brush that on, then sand to smooth it even with the rest?

[cabinetman]

HD has the brush-on variety. Perhaps I could brush that on, then sand to smooth it even with the rest?

It would be better to spray it on, even if it's a rattle can. Brushing it on will leave an uneven stroke and it would be difficult to "feather" it to the existing finish.
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[crokett]

How big is the top on the dresser? It is your call but in my experience in the long run it is easier and quicker just to sand down the top and refinish the entire thing. It can't take that long to use a ROS or belt sander to sand off the existing lacquer and reapply it. I'm the first to admit that it could be lack of talent but I've never gotten spot repairs to match all that well.