Tenon help...

[Sam Conder]

All right guys & gals, I have to cut tenons on the end of boards that are 80" long. My first attempt was to use the router table and to pass the boards over a straight cutting bit with poor results. I couldn't keep the board perpendicular to the router fence (used to control the tenon length). The board would rock back and forth.

My second attempt was to clamp the board flat on the workbench and to use a fence and my router handheld to make the shoulder cuts. The results were much better. However, now I can't figure out how to make the cheek cuts. I tried using the bandsaw for the cuts perpendicular to the tenon and a japanese pull saw (thanks Hank!) for the cuts parallel to to the tenon. They were ugly.

So... how would you all go about milling tenons on the ends of 80" long boards?

[RayintheUK]

If I had several to do, I'd gang them together and cut the shoulders with a circular saw. Then I'd run the circular saw with a fence on to cut the cheek bottoms, removing the waste with a router. That would leave the shoulders to remove - jig saw, tidy up with a chisel.

Ray

[poolhound]

My first idea was to similar to Ray's, basically gang them together and use a router.

When you tried on the router table did you do it freehand? If yes I was going to suggest a coping sled that clamps down the workpiece and a friendly helper to support the other end.

With a coping sled registered in the miter slot you shouldnt have any issues.

[jackellis]

This is clearly a task for hand-held tools. The board is too long to be moving it to stationary tools.

You need a jig (obvious I suppose) to make sure the router cuts perpendicular to the length of the board.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Sam,
Forgive my not knowing - but do you own a RAS?

If so, you can mount up a dado stack, and cut your shoulders - and if the board is not too wide, you might be able to stand on edge (clamped to a tall fence) and cut the cheeks. Remember to use backer-boards to prevent tearout.

If no RAS, then I think the router method for the shoulders and the jigsaw/chisel cleanup on the cheeks mentioned by Ray might be the best bet.

[wardprobst]

Howdy Sam,

You don't say how many you have to do but this is where I'd break out hand tools (without tails). Tenon saw, shoulder plane and chisels will take care of several boards before you can build a jig for a power tool.
JMO,
DP

[Sam Conder]

My solution:

I only had two boards to tenon, and they were different widths. I decided to take a cue from Norm and use the tablesaw to cut all the shoulder lines. I used the BT3's SMT with the long SMT fence attached. I also made a "T" out of some scrap 2x4 that I clamped in my Black & Decker Workmate and used it to keep the end of the boards from dipping. This worked famously.

I then went to the bandsaw and made the end cheek cuts establithing the length of the tenons. I cut a little proud of the mark, opting to fine tune them with a sharp chisel.

To finish up the tenons, I chose to work with the router handheld and clamp the boards flat on the workbench. This worked out great and I ended up with very nice tenons that required a minimal amount of fuss to clean up.

[SARGE..g-47]

Too late now but I will join the two who suggested hand tools. Anything over 60" I use my trustly pull saw and a chisel just like the olden days (1972-1976)when I had no real power tools to speak of. I personally feel I control the cut in that scenario in lieu of the cut controls me.

Glad you got em done...

[billwmeyer]

Loose tenons

I think I would try loose tennons on something that long. I've never tried it though.
Bill

[crokett]

I think I would try loose tennons on something that long. I've never tried it though.
Bill

That is what I would do. I would make a jig and the mortise in the ends of the 80" boards I would hog out most of the waste with a hand drill and chisel the rest. The mortise in the face of the adjoining board I would do with the same jig and drill. This way I don't have to make a new jig and/or set up the router.

[gary]

I'd use a crosscut sled for the side cuts. I'd even consider a dado blade on the saw while doing it so you could do it in one operation.