Design dimensions?

[Scoly2803]

I am ready to start prepping the lumber for this

As I started to make the first cut there was a panic attack.
Dimensions can and do make or break a project and I was not confident in my dimensions so please help.
Cabinet will be 60"s wide 26 high and 24 deep. Had planned 2"x2" legs with
2" stretcher across the bottom and around. More I looked at the image the more I began to doubt.
Any suggestions or thoughts on these dimensions will be a great help.
Thanks
Steve

[LarryG]

What's the nature of your concern? Structural integrity? Aesthetics? Both?

[poolhound]

Steve,

I take it that you are using this photo as your design inspiration rather than trying to replicate it in every dimensional aspect.

I would start with a rough diagram based on your room and your actual TV, desired viewing height etc. As seating tends to vary in height with an entertainment center you should first establish where your typical eye level is when you are watching TV. Ideally the middle of the screen should be at eye level for most comfortable viewing. Once you have this it will give you the height of the base unit. the width will of course need to match the width of your Tv with some room to spare. With flat screen TVs depth is more of a personal preferance and more based on any storage requirements and/or the size of you various AV equipment.

One thing to be careful about is do consider adequate airflow around your electronics. Dont just jam them all into a cupboard and close the door!! You can also factor in some small fans in the cabinets to help keep the air moving.

[Scoly2803]

Photo is inspiration. Just want to be sure the dimensions are aesthetically pleasing. Spent part of the weekend looking at cabinets and it seemed that 2" stretchers were used often but at 57" wide I don't want it to look skimpy.
Nature of concern is both with an edge toward asthetics.

TV is 57" wide 33" high and 17" deep.

At a cabinet height of 26" the viewing angle will be just below center of the screen which is where it is currently. Need the height for my center channel though it could be lowered a bit if necessary for the aesthetics.

After a little thought I will change the height to give me closer to the center viewing. Makes a lot of sense.

Does 2" for the bottom stretchers seem about right?
Thanks again.
Steve

[scmhogg]

Steve,

2'' might look a little thin for the stretchers. The pic looks like 3' to me. They look thicker than the legs.

You might try using the golden mean to size your rectangles. The "golden rectangle" is considered pleasing to the eye. The ratio is 1 to 1.618. I made some calipers to aid in scaling my drawings.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ight=fibonacci

Steve

[LarryG]

Much would depend on the detailing, but FWIW ... I made a very rudimentary CAD drawing of the console unit and thought 2" looked a little skimpy for both the legs and the stretchers. An increase to 2-1/4" was better; 2-1/2" would work, too.

[cabinetman]

In looking at the picture, the vertical face ends that are full stiles aren't square below the cabinet. At least that is the way it looks on my screen. They only look 3/4" thick (legs below the cabinet). You might consider from the picture the gap in between the units, whether it detracts from the unit's continuity. I would make the R&S's the same dimensions.

As for the thicknesses of the pieces, pick up one of those triangular architectural rulers. They aren't expensive, and they are usually sold in the stationary sections of department stores. Draw out the unit in a readable scale like 1 1/2" = 1'-0". You may have to use 3" = 1'-0". From that drawing, you will see what dimensions will look like for the overall scale of the unit.
.

[Scoly2803]

Thanks again for the insight.
Took the time to make some sketchup drawings and have to agree that 2" is a bit skimpy.

2" legs with 1.75 Stretcher

2"legs with 2.25" stretcher
Also tried 2" stretcher but the more I looked and compared to the 2.25 the more I liked the 2.25.
Larry
thanks for taking the time. Your right. The 2" does look skimpy.
Schmogg
Fooled around with the golden triangle and divided the height (26") by 1.618 several times and came to 2.34. Close to the 2.25 I settled on. Still struggling with the height. Keep going back and forth.
Cabinetman
Thanks for suggesting the drawings. I'm a complete novice to Sketchup but decided to give it a go and it really did help. By using the dimensioning tool I am able to try so many combinations of sizes and the ability to change individual components makes it that much better.
Thanks to all.
Steve

[Tom Miller]

In looking at the picture, the vertical face ends that are full stiles aren't square below the cabinet. At least that is the way it looks on my screen. They only look 3/4" thick (legs below the cabinet).
.

Yeah, that's what it looks like to me, too. BUT, it appears (at least looking at the tall piece on the near end) that the side frame and panel also has a vertical stile contributing to the "leg". So, the cross-section of the leg is "L" shaped.

My guess is that the inner piece is similarly constructed, as it's really separated from the two tall end pieces.

Or did everyone already gather that?

Regards,
Tom

[pelligrini]

My guess is that the inner piece is similarly constructed, as it's really separated from the two tall end pieces.

Or did everyone already gather that?

Regards,
Tom

That's what I figured from the photograph too, 3 seperate pieces.

[LarryG]

the side frame and panel also has a vertical stile contributing to the "leg". So, the cross-section of the leg is "L" shaped.

My guess is that the inner piece is similarly constructed, as it's really separated from the two tall end pieces.

Correct on all counts, AFAICT. I think this is probably modular, knock-down furniture; L-shaped legs such as you describe, of ~3/4" material but giving the illusion of square legs, is pretty common with that stuff. Of course that doesn't mean Steve has to build his that way.

[Scoly2803]

Legs in the pic do seem to be 3/4 made to appear to be solid. Mine will be solid. Sides have a vertical stile which I like. Will be doing mine this way. Can't tell much about the doors but wife wants pocket doors.

Construction will be M/T, rabbit and dado's. Will have to get a rail and stile set for the doors. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy Freud. Hate to spend that amount of money for the 8 or so doors. Any economy sets that will do the job?

First up is the stand for the TV and depending on how that goes other two pieces will follow.

Thanks again for the input.
Steve

[LarryG]

Those are just plain, flat-panel doors -- probably 1/4" plywood. If you retain the same style, you could cut the dadoes and stub tenons on the stiles and rails using only your table saw.

[cabinetman]

Legs in the pic do seem to be 3/4 made to appear to be solid. Mine will be solid. Sides have a vertical stile which I like. Will be doing mine this way. Can't tell much about the doors but wife wants pocket doors.

Construction will be M/T, rabbit and dado's. Will have to get a rail and stile set for the doors. Guess I'll bite the bullet and buy Freud. Hate to spend that amount of money for the 8 or so doors. Any economy sets that will do the job?

First up is the stand for the TV and depending on how that goes other two pieces will follow.

Thanks again for the input.
Steve

The simplest way to do the doors would be to cut the rails and stiles and butt glue and clamp, and then rabbet the back inner edge for the 1/4" panel and glue it in place. Or, just do half laps on the R&S's and use a groove for the panel or set the panel in a rabbet and glue it in place. The door will not come apart.

Something to think about. In just planning just the one unit for starters will necessitate making future setups for the same sized pieces that will be used for the two wing units. For material figuring and job planning as far as machining, it may be beneficial to do groups that take the same preparation.

For the end long standing stiles (corners), they could be basically 3/4" all the way to the bottom of the cabinet, and then just boxed for the full look to the floor.
.

[Tom Miller]

For the end long standing stiles (corners), they could be basically 3/4" all the way to the bottom of the cabinet, and then just boxed for the full look to the floor.

Yeah, otherwise it kind of seems like a waste of thick stock when it's all going to be "hidden" inside the cabinet, and perhaps even in the way.

Regards,
Tom