Sled Runners

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  • jackellis
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 2638
    • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
    • BT3100

    #1

    Sled Runners

    After four attempts, I've about given up on wooden runners for table saw sleds. Three were too sloppy and now one is too tight because the wood moved. My "good" sled cuts accurately enough but it's not wide enough and over the last few months, the oak runner has apparently warped enough that it takes quite a bit of force to move the sled across the table, which is getting to be unsafe.

    I need to cut a bunch of panels for cabinets and I'm planning on making the Ultimate Crosscut Sled in FWW #199. This will be a large sled capable of cutting full width sheets of plywood so I don't have to make another one ever again.

    At this point the question is whether to use aluminum or steel bar stock for the single runner. The tolerances on steel stock seem to be tighter but steel is quite a bit heavier and a bit more expensive than aluminum.

    Any suggestions?
  • shoottx
    Veteran Member
    • May 2008
    • 1240
    • Plano, Texas
    • BT3000

    #2
    Jack

    I just finished reading this post from FWW, http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/i...tablesaw-sleds about making the sleds. It may answer some of your questions!
    Often in error - Never in doubt

    Mike

    Comment

    • atgcpaul
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 4055
      • Maryland
      • Grizzly 1023SLX

      #3
      Originally posted by jackellis
      At this point the question is whether to use aluminum or steel bar stock for the single runner. The tolerances on steel stock seem to be tighter but steel is quite a bit heavier and a bit more expensive than aluminum.

      Any suggestions?
      I used 3/4" aluminum T-track for my panel sled runner. Works well.

      http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...highlight=sled

      I'll probably go this route again when I make my cutoff sled (someday).


      Paul

      Comment

      • cgallery
        Veteran Member
        • Sep 2004
        • 4503
        • Milwaukee, WI
        • BT3K

        #4
        Here is my thread on how I used UHMW runners. Still working superbly. Have two sleds using the stuff and have been through a few seasonal adjustments and no change in fit.

        http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=37996
        Last edited by cgallery; 02-18-2009, 12:19 PM.

        Comment

        • RodKirby
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 3136
          • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
          • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

          #5
          3/4 x 3/8 UHMWPE Sled runners -

          Drilled/tapped to attach with 1/4-20 screws (counterbored).

          Sideways drilled/tapped for 1/4-20 nylon tipped steel set screws

          EASY to adjust - work perfectly

          Click image for larger version

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          Last edited by RodKirby; 02-18-2009, 12:17 PM.
          Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

          Comment

          • jackellis
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2003
            • 2638
            • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
            • BT3100

            #6
            I have a block of UHMW but I'm not sure how to cut it so there's a smooth surface on both sides. TS, or BS?

            Comment

            • pelligrini
              Veteran Member
              • Apr 2007
              • 4217
              • Fort Worth, TX
              • Craftsman 21829

              #7
              I really like using the Incra miter sliders. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...s=5121&pcs=fam They are adjustable, and not very expensive.
              Erik

              Comment

              • drumpriest
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2004
                • 3338
                • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
                • Powermatic PM 2000

                #8
                I used a couple of sets of these, are on sale for 9$ a pair. I do worry about whether or not they could/will damage the miter slots though.

                http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...r&cookietest=1
                Keith Z. Leonard
                Go Steelers!

                Comment

                • cgallery
                  Veteran Member
                  • Sep 2004
                  • 4503
                  • Milwaukee, WI
                  • BT3K

                  #9
                  Originally posted by jackellis
                  I have a block of UHMW but I'm not sure how to cut it so there's a smooth surface on both sides. TS, or BS?
                  I'd do table saw with a carbide-tipped blade.

                  Comment

                  • poolhound
                    Veteran Member
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 3196
                    • Phoenix, AZ
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    Jack,

                    I guess I must just have been lucky. I have 3 sleds all using wooden runners, 2 with oak and one with walnut. at 3/4" wide there shouldnt really be that much expansion and contraction but I guess it depends on where you live and the realtive humidity levels. Maybe living in PHX I am luckier than most. This winter they did get a little on the tight side but nothing too bad. The oldest set has been will have been in use for 2 years this summer. I guess I should wait and see what happens this year when the temp gets to 110 with <10% humidity.

                    Another issue is wether (and how) they are finsihed and how they are attached. After cutting and fitting for size I usually treat mine with a couple of coats of wipe on and then keep them waxed. I attach them to the sleds with a screw approx every 5". This shouldnt give them much of an opportunity to warp.
                    Jon

                    Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
                    ________________________________

                    We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
                    techzibits.com

                    Comment

                    • jackellis
                      Veteran Member
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 2638
                      • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      Thanks for all the great suggestions. I have several 4' sections of Rockler T-track but I hate to use them for something like this. Aluminum bar stock runs about $5 for a 4' section...plus $13 for shipping - have to check out the Borg. I think my block of UHMW is 4' long.

                      I guess the key thing on this attempt is to screw the runner in place only. No glue.

                      Comment

                      • ehamady

                        #12
                        I'm a new member and this may be a little late, but I use my router to create a shallow channel for the runner. It keeps the runner staright and sliding smooth.

                        Comment

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