Mixing Ash and Poplar on painted project?

[Gator95]

Still working out plans for the secretary my wife asked for. She wants it painted white. Was planning on using poplar for most of it, but I've got about 4 BF of 8/4 ash leftover from another project that I could probably use to cut the 1 1/2" square legs.

Is the prominent grain of the ash vs. the subdued closed grain of the poplar going to be apparent once painted?

Was figuring on oil-based primer/sealent, followed by 2-3 light coats of a quality latex paint. Have never painted furnature before, only used either tung oil or Poly. Suggestions on finishing schedule and recommended products are welcome.

[crokett]

If it is properly sanded and primed and painted with quality primer and paint, then no.

[sscherin]

I 'd look into using an oil based paint for things like desks and tables..

Things left on the surface for long periods of time tend to stick to latex paint.
I know this from experience

Oil dries to a very hard durable finish..

My last project was painted with Rustolium oil based semi-gloss.. I expected it to smell terrible but it really didn't smell much at all.

It was to cold in the shop so I did it all in the dining room. It was dry in 24 hours and nobody said anything about paint odors.

Drop cloth highly recommenced

Different wood won't be much of an issue.. I have a mix of oak and poplar on my stand.

[jziegler]

I 'd look into using an oil based paint for things like desks and tables..

Things left on the surface for long periods of time tend to stick to latex paint.
I know this from experience

Oil dries to a very hard durable finish..

A good acrylic enamel has most of the properties of an oli paint, but won't yellow like some (many?) oil paints do. If you want a true white, a good acrylic enamel may be a good choice.

I have no experience working with ash, but I'd think that a lot of work would be needed to get it as smooth when painted as poplar. A grain filler might help though.

Jim

[poolhound]

given how cheap poplar is (<$2 bd/ft round here) I think I would just go and get the extra poplar and save the Ash for another day.

[Gator95]

given how cheap poplar is (<$2 bd/ft round here) I think I would just go and get the extra poplar and save the Ash for another day.

Ash and Poplar are both in the $2.00-$2.50 range here. Only real driver to using the Ash on the project is to get it used and out of my garage.

[Knottscott]

It should work out ok if you place the ash well, but you could also use a grain filler to smooth it out.

[jackellis]

You're lucky you live where lumber is relatively cheap.

I can'te ven bear the thought of staining ash. Even though it's in the same category of coarse-grained woods like oak, it seems to me to be much more elegant and I hate the thought of even staining it, much less painting it.

[Gator95]

It should work out ok if you place the ash well, but you could also use a grain filler to smooth it out.

Is a grain filler different from a primer?
Totally ignorant about painted finished, have only used poly so far.

Really hate having to put paint on perfectly nice wood, but it's what my wife asked for. After trying to talk her into a mission style with QSWO, she said "I just want it white. If you really don't want to build it, it's fine. I'm sure you've got other projects to do. I'll just go to pottery barn and get one"

[Tom Slick]

It depends on the sheen of the paint for how hard it is. At least that is true with Sherwin Williams paints. High gloss and satin(IIRC) dry hard, other sheens will be soft/tacky.

grain will show through the paint/primer. you don't need a oil based primer/sealer, just use latex primer and paint.

[Knottscott]

Is a grain filler different from a primer?
Totally ignorant about painted finished, have only used poly so far.

Really hate having to put paint on perfectly nice wood, but it's what my wife asked for. After trying to talk her into a mission style with QSWO, she said "I just want it white. If you really don't want to build it, it's fine. I'm sure you've got other projects to do. I'll just go to pottery barn and get one"

Yes....grain filler is a separate product used specifically to level the grain of porous wood for a smoother surface. Most wwing stores and even homecenters should have it.

[Workman]

It hasn't been mentioned, but look into Milk Paint. You can make your own for almost nothing. It requires bare wood - do not use a primer. Look up recipes on the net. This was the original "paint" your grandfather would have made and used. (Since King Tut at least). It is still the best painted finish for Windsor chairs and anything that looks, or is supposed to look, like it was made prior to 1900. The stuff wears like iron and is low-VOC or no-VOC depending on the pigment used. It is easy to distress. It basically consists of milk, lime, clay or plaster of paris, and pigment. The casein in the milk reacts chemically with the lime for the bond. I use titanium oxide for white pigment. When applied, it is initially a thin paint that appears to have coarse grains in it but by thoroughly brushing the pain in the grains disappear and by the second or third coat you will achieve complete coverage. If you want a distressed look, paint something (other than white) over red or brown and rub the top coat off in appropriate areas. The red was historically caused because the main pigments were blood, the brown was rust (iron oxide) used as a pigment. (The reason for all the red barns in America). Also milk paint "feels good" - not like you're ruining that hardwood piece, but making it remain "authentic".