Fixing raised panel oops

[Gator95]

Did something stupid, but I think easy to fix.

Ran my panels for a hutch door down to 5/8" and then used my vertical panel raising bit. I'd previously used the bit on 3/4" stock, before I got my planer, and then just did a little rabbet in the back to fit the 1/4" stile grove. But now that I've got a planer- it MUST be used.

Moved the router fence over a bit too much on the last pass to raise the panels and introduced a bit more filet than I planned on- which actually looks nice. Unfortunately (you knew this was coming) my panel edge is now too thin- actually thin by about the depth of the filet.

The panel now is very loose when I dry fit. It would rattle around if I don't do something to adjust it. I was thinking of just cutting some thin shims and placing them at the four corners of the panel on the inside of the doors to bring the panel flush to the front edge of the rail and stile grooves.

Any other obvious fixes?

[gsmittle]

You could try Space Balls in the grooves. They're available from Rockler and Woodcraft and are reasonably priced.

g.

[Mr__Bill]

I have seen cupboards built by carpenters way back when, late 17 early 1800. That the panel was floating and held in place with wedges with a spot of glue on the wedge. The wedge went across the grain on the top and bottom with just a small one in the middle on each side. While these could have been a damage repair effort they looked like the original craftsman did it. Now to make it look authentic the panel needs to have a crack in it that was dutchmened over on the back side with some light canves and hide glue.

Bill

[JR]

Space balls?

[Uncle Cracker]

Wedge or shim more, rather than less. If you don't have at least one at the midpoint on each side and top and bottom, you will most likely pull away from flush on the front side, because there is always steam in a kitchen. You might even be able to spline the entire length of the joint in such a manner as to make it look finished from the inside. Just remember that anything glued in place should be glued either to the panel or the frame, but not both. Gotta let those joints float.

[drumpriest]

Space balls are excellent, they get my vote as well!

[JimD]

It depends on whether a gap on the backside would bother you. You can close the gap on the front by any of the measures mentioned but it seems you would still have a gap on the back. The only way I can think of to close up the gap on the back would be to glue on a thin strip, possibly planning the panel afterwards to get the total thickness right. You will have to decide if this would be better or worse than the appearance of the gap.

I have had some gaps on most of the solid wood panels I have made for various reasons. The most typical reason is the panel was not completely flat so the tongue to go into the groove had to be a little undersize for it to fit. I finish the panel prior to assembly but they still seem to move a little and I have not had any problem with them rattling. You may also not need to do anything, in other words. I also typically spray a final coat of finish or two on the entire door so the panels typically end up somewhat fixed in place by the final layers of finish.

Jim

[Gator95]

Thanks all.

I just cut 5/64" thick splines the length of the panel from some scrap and glued it on along the long grain. Actually looks pretty good- like it's supposed to be there.

Dry fit it after the glued dried and panels fit perfect and tight to front of the rail/stile groves.

[Uncle Cracker]

Thanks all.

I just cut 5/64" thick splines the length of the panel from some scrap and glued it on along the long grain. Actually looks pretty good- like it's supposed to be there.

Dry fit it after the glued dried and panels fit perfect and tight to front of the rail/stile groves.

Outstanding! Glad that worked well for ya... Not every mistake has to be a disaster (although most of mine are ).