Attaching Drawer Pulls

[jackellis]

I found this recipie for shop-made cabinet pulls that I'm going to use on some scrapwood shop drawers. Normally pulls get attached with screws. However, after making a prototype, I'm worried that the portion of the pull that would normally hold the end of the screw won't be long enough.

Other than the ability to remove and replace a bad pull, is there any reason they should not be attached with brads or finishing nails?

[JR]

Hmm, don't you still have about 3/4" of material for the screws to grab? That would seem like plenty.

How would you nail it? Toenail from the side? That's the only way I could see it working, but doesnt' seem sound to me.

JR

[BobSch]

I'd use wood screws from the back.

[poolhound]

Other than the ability to remove and replace a bad pull, is there any reason they should not be attached with brads or finishing nails?

Thats enough of a reason for me to use screws. From the looks of the diagram there should still be plenty of depth to get at least 1/2" of screw thread into the pull. As it will have 2 screws and the forces on the pull will be minimal I dont see any problems using screws.

Unless you particularly want to use pulls, had you considered just routing a finger slot into the back of the frame.

[jackellis]

After I read JR's reply I sorta slapped my head as if to saw, "Just what was I thinking?".

So, screws it will be, though I will pin nail and clamp them while I drill holes.

The pulls will be made of tigerwood decking scraps and will contrast nicely with the ash drawer fronts.

[Black wallnut]

Okay! Since this is the second question about shop made drawer pulls in about as many days I feel compelled to post a pic of the style I make. In the pic on the far left is a pull. 1/2" cove bit for the finger pocket, full length; 1/2" radius roundover for the opposite edge. Each end beveled to about 30° to 45° leaving a reveal of about 1/4". All edges softened with a light sanding. These are attached with wood screws,#6, from the inside.

[chopnhack]

Wo! Blackwalnut, those are some seriously close tolerances on those pine drawers! Do you have any issues with binding? I have a lot of humidity so althought the sight is of great craftsmanship () it made me cringe!

[jackellis]

There's no such thing as humidity where BlackWalnut lives.

I also envy his craftsmanship and thank him for more drawer pull ideas.

[Black wallnut]

Wo! Blackwalnut, those are some seriously close tolerances on those pine drawers! Do you have any issues with binding? I have a lot of humidity so althought the sight is of great craftsmanship () it made me cringe!

LOL I do have some binding but not enough to really matter. As the time has passed they've loosened up some and since the drawer sides are plywood they will wear loose as more time passes.

Hey that said Jackellis pretty much hit it on the nail head humidity is mostly not much of a problem here.

[shoottx]

I found this recipie for shop-made cabinet pulls that I'm going to use on some scrapwood shop drawers. Normally pulls get attached with screws. However, after making a prototype, I'm worried that the portion of the pull that would normally hold the end of the screw won't be long enough.

Other than the ability to remove and replace a bad pull, is there any reason they should not be attached with brads or finishing nails?

Yup, If you use brads the handle, if on a drawer, will likely pull off of the pin, into your hand, with the drawer remaining in place. Screw it!