Making.. Installing a Spring-board.. attn. Chiz

[SARGE..g-47]

I got a PM from Chiz asking for an explanation of how I make.. install and use a spring-board. I PM'ed him back with a verbal explanation but he has requested pictures as they sometimes say a thousand words.

The board Chiz is scrap ply in 3/4". 2 wood tabs glued to the face.. then a thin (1/4" will work) of wood... another wooden tab glued to the face of it and then the front face glued to that. Be sure to round over the entry and exit ends to avoid potential drag.

The extra end miter is home-made with MDF laminated and an after-market miter track dadoed in. I use the one that accepts 3/8" bolts as some of my stock is very thick as in up to 3" (12/4). The 3/8" are better suited as they are sturdier than 5/16" or 1/4".

Again.. drill three 3/8" holes in the end of the left extension table to accept 3 5/16" bolts. The larger hole allows adjust to get the addition flat with the existing cast iron top.

Thats about it as the pictures should give you a clear view of what has been discussed but.. if any questions or need specific photo's please ask as my consulting fee's are very reasonable.

[SARGE..g-47]

Opps.. blew that 3rd picture so disreagard the little spring-board attached to a Quik-Grip. Another little idea I had. Here's that last picture.

[shoottx]

Very Cool

Great Idea with great pictures to explain the concept. Not that you aren't articulate, the pictures provide added clarity!

[Ed62]

Thanks for a great idea, Sarge. It was very well explained. Thanks also to Chiz for talking you into it.

Ed

[radhak]

Sarge, thanks for the pics - clarifies a lot of unasked questions I had (to begin with 'what is a spring board?' ).

I do have a question - since the strength or support for this is only at the middle, how much help is it at it's end points ? Do you experience any unwanted flex? I am assuming the springboard should be placed before the blade?

[ironhat]

Boy, it's a good thing I asked for the photos, sarge. I was completely off base with an entirely different type of springboard. That goes to show you that 'ole Ben Franklin was right when he said that a short pencil is better than a long memory. Thanks again, Chiz

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks Ed and Mike and I'm glad I posted the pictures Chiz. I suppose pictures do make things much clearer.. at least for me. You can basically look at them and it's self explanatory how it works an attaches.

Radhak.... now that you know what a spring-board is and it's principles, I wil answer your questions on middle support only.. too much flex?.. and where it is placed.

Yes.. the middles seems to be the main support. Look at the picture. Notice that two 1/4" thick and 1" wide pieces are glued directly to the ends of the main board. Those also are support even though they may not appear to. You glue another 1/4" to 5/16" one inch long strip on the face of those when your glue dries. If you push your finger on the center you will see where the first spring has been created.

But.. not done yet. Glue a 1/4" strip about 1" long on the face of that. Then glue another about 2" long on it. Once dry.. glue on your 3/8" face strip that had been rounded at the ends. You can wait and round it after you glue it on a belt disc if you wish.

At this point you have very even pressure all the way across the face of the outer strip that will ride the left side of the stock. So even I much prefer this to a feather and have for many years. It has seen much use on the TS.. router table.. etc.. etc.. Try it as it only takes about an hour to build one plus glue dry time.

Where to place it? I use a half fence or what some might call a Euro short fence that only goes slightly short of center blade as all final severing of stock happens before the trailing end of stock reaches center blade. That creates a free zone beyond center blade that a piece of extreme tension wood will not hit a long fence.. rebound back toward the blade and with enough force flex the splitter or riving knife and the stock touch the rear of those dangerous rear rising teeth. If it does you have just entered "kick-back City Limits" and every man for himself.

So.. the spring board should be placed so the front end is even with the tapers front end of the half fence. Once the stock has cleared that end of both the fence and spring-board it is completely severed and no more support is needed. If you are done you can hit the kill swithch with your knee and wait for the blade to quit spinning to remove the stock.

If you have more stock to rip you use a long push stick and push it through always pushing toward the free zone or to the fence.. walk around the saw and retrieve it in lieu of reaching over the blade (even with a shield as I use) and risking losing balance and falling forward toward the blade. With a shield you would probably be OK but there is absolutely no reason to depend on the word PROBABLY in the world of Reality! ..

[jackellis]

Uh Sarge, is the bulldog related to the saw, or it is the mascot for a certain university in North Georgia?

[SARGE..g-47]

Uh Sarge, is the bulldog related to the saw, or it is the mascot for a certain university in North Georgia?

It was in relation to a certain University that is just a hop... skip and jump down the road from me, Jack. "Was" is past tense reflecting the fact that the magnetic (easily removable) sign no longer resided on my saw. It has a new home where-ever it landed in the woods behind my house after I ripped it off my TS and slung it a full gale force just yesterday by co-incidence.

Normally I am a somewhat understanding man but... nobody is going to totally embarrass me on National TV and get away with it without reprisal. I knew they would be beaten but only expected by around 10 points as Florida is a very well rounded team on both sides of the ball and has great special teams. But.. even with a very young offensive line (two true freshman and the rest of the starters are young replacements from others going down for the season) 39 points is what I deem total embarassment.

A man has to do what a man has to do......

BTW.. congratulations to the Texas Tech Red Raders who lifted my hopes.. then let them deflate... then lifted them again with .01 second left. I loved every minute of the first half and sweated out the second. Great game and time for the long time under-dogs to advance to the "land of milk and honey" as I see it.

[jackellis]

It was in relation to a certain University that is just a hop... skip and jump down the road from me, Jack.

I thought so. In which case it's best that I am a continent away on Thanksgiving days.

By the way, I've made a spring board for my saw but used a less-than satisfactory method of attaching it that did not involve drilling holes in the table. I just hate doing that sort of thing but it's probably time.

[SARGE..g-47]

"I just hate doing that sort of thing but it's probably time"...

Want to borrow a drill and bit? Or.. you could drop if off and I'll drill it for you to relieve the pain.

I won't hesitate to drill a hole in any machine if I can improve it in some way, I doubt that I have any that didn't get modified in some way within several days of assembly. My new TS got those holes drilled in the left extention wing to accept the add on hex bolt track. The standard 4" port got en-larged to 6" as did my BS and jointer.

Again... a man has to do what a man has to do.

Regards...

[niki]

Hi SARGE

Thanks for the pictures and the detailed explanation...I think that I'll make one for the router table especially for jointing (as you know, I use the "Rollers" on the TS).

Just small information: I've sent e-mail to Metabo woodworking engineering department as for the use of the "Short fence" and they replied that it should be set up to the center of the blade.

It's difficult to see on the pictures but......is your "Spring board" set so it "covers" a portion of the blade..I mean, beyond the blade front teeth ?
I set the "Rollers" some 1" or so before the blade as on the pic below...

Regards
niki

[SARGE..g-47]

Evening Niki.. my short fence ends just short of mid-blade as the cut is actually totally severed at 1" before mid-blade on 3" stock or maximum thickness attainable on a 10" TS. But.. you could set it to center blade as that would be a good way to not to have to move it.

The spring-board can slide forward and rearward as it is attached with two hex head 3/8" bolts that ride in a hex bolt track mounted on the left side of the TS extention wing. But... I place it so the front edge is just slightly behind the front exit edge of the short fence. This particular spring-board is 12" long and the spring gives equal pressure over the entire 12". My personal view is if you have support on the fence side you should have support on the left side as well. The SB not only keeps even tension so the stock stays againt the fence... it is a block to the left if a kick-back occurs.

At that point you have a block right (fence) block left (spring-board) block on upward launch (crown gaurd) with free zone beyond blade center. The only way the stock can totally escape in kick-back at that point is front and rear of blade. We know that rear is un-likely because of the direction of blade spin.

So.. front exit is the likely culprit and why the first TS rule of safety I learned in HS shop class back in 1963 is: Keep the Lane Clear...

BTW.. I will post a picture of a new Taper jig I just built Saturday tomorrow. I hate those cheap aluminum ones as I feel they are a good way to mess up stock and get yourself hurt. This one keeps your hands 16" away from blade.. securely locks the stock down and can taper up to 12" wide and postively rides the fence without the chance of coming slightly off the fence to give an erratic cut. It's the best I have designed and will probably be my last.

Regards...

Sarge..

[leehljp]

I have one of those made for my router table. Works Great!