Questions on building countertop

[bmuir]

I know that you laminate the edges of the countertop first, but, if the edge has several pieces ("L"-shaped countertop) do you do each peice separately?

As in:
Apply glue to a strip; install; and trim.
Clean up area and vacuum next strip area. Apply glue to another strip, install; and trim.
Clean and vacuum top; apply glue; install top laminate; and trim.

Is that how it goes?

Thanks,

Bill

[cabinetman]

It's wise to do one at a time because the ends have to be trimmed to fit, so the next piece will go on flush. Trimming the edge or even filing them, will leave debris on a glued edge next to it. You could plan which way you lay them so the overlapped joint faces the way you want. Usually the side/edge you see first, goes on last.

Or if you are creative and skilled, miter the corners. Doing that, you would dry fit all the edges for the exact fit, then you could glue them all at once.
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[LarryG]

You can do all the pieces that don't meet at corners at the same time. That is, as you view an L-shaped countertop in plan, you can do all the "X"-axis pieces in one step, trim them, and then do the "Y"-axis pieces as the second step. Which axis you consider "X" and "Y" will depend on which way you want the corners lapped.

[cabinetman]

Here's a more simplified way of explaining the edges. Words like axis can get confusing. The sketch below is a simple representation of an "L" countertop. Edges that could be a wall could conceivably be F, A, B, or C, or a combination., but for this explanation, that's not important.
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Assuming the wall is "A", edge "F", "D", and "B" could be laminated at the same time. Then the "FE", "DC", and "BC" ends can be trimmed off, filed/sanded flat to the substrate.

Then, edge "E", and "C" can be laminated, and the remaining corners trimmed and filed.

Laminating into a corner like "ED", can be done at the same time, for an initial lamination. The order is just a guideline and may depend which edges are the most visibly important, to decide which order to laminate the edge, and which way the overlap is planned. As I previously posted, all the edges can go on at once if the corners are mitered.

As for trimming, a flush trim router bit with 3 flutes and a bearing will give a very good cut. For sanding flat, you can make a sanding block with using a 80x, or 100x 3 x 18 belt sanding belt, and cutting a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" plywood or solid wood to fit inside the belt that when slid into the belt, stretches it tight.

For filing the laminate, a smooth mill file works very well. When either filing or sanding, the motion of abrasion should be away from the face edge. IOW, when one edge is laminated to another and trimmed off, filing should only be done in one direction, from the face piece to the perpendicular piece. Angles for trimming if you wish can be done with a bevel trim bit, and there are several to choose from. When using a hand file, care has to be taken not to file to far into the butted piece. Filing angles of 15° to 25° are a good range. Not necessary to measure the degrees, it just an angle you get used to.

As for files, you don't want a file that's too aggressive. You can see the "FLAT SMOOTH" compared with the "FLAT SECOND CUT", HERE. The smooth will give the best edge, but the "SECOND CUT", is very aggressive. If you can find the brand "Plasti Cut", they work wonders on laminate. I order my files from these guys.

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[LarryG]

Words like axis can get confusing.

Oh, that's right ... I guess I forgot who would be reading this thread.

My posts are like a bright light and you're like a bug, aren't you, "cabinetman"? I can scarely write anything on this board without you desperately trying to find SOME way to correct, criticize, or contradict me. You do the same thing to Howard Acheson over on Woodnet. It would all almost be comical if it weren't so pathetic.

[cabinetman]

Oh, that's right ... I guess I forgot who would be reading this thread.

My posts are like a bright light and you're like a bug, aren't you, "cabinetman"? I can scarely write anything on this board without you desperately trying to find SOME way to correct, criticize, or contradict me. You do the same thing to Howard Acheson over on Woodnet. It would all almost be comical if it weren't so pathetic.

I'm sorry you see my explanations that way. Your personal attack on this thread is a violation of the rules, and constitutes "hijacking". I am only answering on this thread in my defense since you made it a forum issue. If you have issues with me of a personal nature, send a PM.

Members here and on WN are for the most part individuals not privy to technical language that is sometimes used. At times I find myself trying to understand why some people make their replies worded in a manner that can not only be confusing, but invariably unrelated to the subject matter. So, when I feel I can contribute to the information, without having to ask someone or look up details, the source data comes from doing the work or performing the procedure.

By the very nature of an individuals response in trying to impress by using specialized technical language or delivering a dribble of chemical formulas that are intended for chemists, my criticisms are for the benefit of a simple accurate answer. I don't personally attack anyone. I do have my thoughts on how important an answer can be when it involves time or material costs to someone with a project.

Fortunately, forums give the opportunity for a variety of replies, which may be a good check system for those with an personal agenda. I don't believe I "do" anything to anyone. I'm sure if my comments on WN were as you say "pathetic", I would have been bounced right out of there.
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[poolhound]

Hey guys - CHILL OUT!

This is not a competition. More than one reply and opinion is what most folks come here for even if they are slight variations on the same technique.

Stay cool were talking about countertops here not negotiating peace in the middle east!

[steve-norrell]

Hey guys - CHILL OUT!

This is not a competition. More than one reply and opinion is what most folks come here for even if they are slight variations on the same technique.

I will second poolhound's comment.

I usually look forward to C'man's and LarryG's comments because, while they may differ somewhat, they are usually quite informative and always make sense.

In a former life I worked in a world where differences in professional opinions were the norm and we learned to respect the other point of view even though we may not always agree with it.

So, keep the helpful suggestions and explanations coming. Some of us need all the help we can get.

Regards, Steve

[LarryG]

"cabinetman": Of course you're going to play the innocent in this. It's what you always do. I've reported you to forum management; we'll let those folks sort it out. But in the meantime, understand this, and understand it well: I am utterly weary of the sly little jabs you have been slinging at me for the better part of a year now. You take your potshots at me in public, so that's where I'm going to respond. If I have to act like an ass in full view of the members, so be it -- because I will NOT tolerate any more of your childish crap. (And you can deny that, too, if you wish. But we both know the truth of the matter.)

Jon and Steve: check your PMs.

Anyone else curious about what's going on here: send me a PM. I'll happily fill you in.

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey Larry,

This is starting to sound like a junior high school debate. That is, if you can't "win" debating the subject, then you attack the other guy personally.

Taking both of your explainations into account, I can't understand either of them, but then again, I don't do counter tops and I really don't give a dam.

Now make nice and try to play with other or do I have to show you guys what I learned to do in SE Asia, and it didn't have anything to do with counter tops.

Quit the $hit, this is all growing old very quickly.

Bruce