Router Table

[Larryl]

I'm at the point in building my router table that I am ready to mount the table top to the stand. The stand is 3/4" birch plywood and the table top is the Rockler http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=894 . My question.....is there a best way to attach/mount the top to the stand? I have a Kreg system and that is my first thought, but then I thought about mounting it with hinges at the rear and let it be able to tilt open from the front. Your thoughts and solutions and any pictures of your table is appreciated.

[leehljp]

I think the Kreg would be fine. I didn't have a Rockler top; made my own. But I used the Kreg on mine. I also used a drill driver with the clutch set on 2 or 3. Then I used a hand held driver to snug it up. I wanted it tight but I did not want the screws stripped.

[Popeye]

Try using a piano hinge and make it a flip top. Pat

[Pappy]

Mine is based on the NYW plans and the top is not attached. There are alignment strips on the underside of the top that fit snug against the inside of the cabinet.

[jziegler]

Hinges sound like a good idea. A flip top gives easy access to the router. It's one of the recommended ways to do it in "Woodworking With the Router". But really, I don't think that it really will matter too much how you attach it in the end.

Jim

[messmaker]

I used a hinge and screws. Simple but handy. I was going to add alignment blocks to the front bet found it not to be necessary.

[Larryl]

Router Table

Thanks to all for your input, as I hoped, it seems that just about any method will work. I am leaning toward the hinge for accessability.

Pappy, I looked at your router table again and feel humbled, yours is a piece of furniture! Mine will not have near the bit storage you have as the lower portion of mine contains my air cleaning system(220v squirrel cage with .3-1.0 micron filter).

[cwsmith]

I made my stand for the Rockler table out of 2 x 4's. I wanted it portable and therefore easily knocked down for transport between the two houses. I fabricated the 2 x 4 leg sets (2) using mortice and tenon blind joints between the front and back legs and then cut mortices in them to allow for connection pieces between the left and right leg sets... 2 in the front and two in the back. These use longer tenons that can be wedge fitted through the left and right leg sets. Works nice, is very stable and yet is easily knocked down for quick storage in the van.

As far as mounting the table top was concerned, I went really simple! The top of the stand is flush on all four sides and I simply draped four cuts of that non-slip shelving liner over the edges and the table top sits on that. It doesn't slip and the weight of the table and router is more than enough to hold it in place.

CWS

[Pappy]

Thanks to all for your input, as I hoped, it seems that just about any method will work. I am leaning toward the hinge for accessability.

Pappy, I looked at your router table again and feel humbled, yours is a piece of furniture! Mine will not have near the bit storage you have as the lower portion of mine contains my air cleaning system(220v squirrel cage with .3-1.0 micron filter).

Thaks for the compliment, but I just have learned to hide the screw ups. There are a couple of the panels that are 2 pieces of 3/4 ply edge glued to make them wide enough. Tend to use what ever is on hand for shop stuff.