Best spacing for fence posts

[stormdog74]

Since I have really long sections of fence (around 150-200 ft per stretch) I would like to make the fence as sturdy as I can within reason. How much benefit would there be to decreasing the space between posts from the standard 8 ft? I was thinking 7 or maybe even 6 ft. What would be considered a reasonable trade off between strength and cost. I am using Postmaster steel posts.

Thanks for any advice.

[SARGE..g-47]

What gauge wire and what are you trying to keep in or out. If you are trying to keep Grizzly bears out.. I would decrease the separation to 2' and use 12' high fence with concentina wire on top. Maybe an electric field.

Just messing with you as I sold my TS and I am one lost puppy without one. If the post are sturdy.. the wire is pretty heavy gauge I really don't think you would really benefit in a normal circumstance. If you have a situation that would constantly put un-normal weight (which I can't think of a situation) I would consider 6'... but only with a definite reason to do so.

Good luck...

[Hoover]

You should be fine with an eight foot spacing. The corner posts should be larger, if you can get some. When tightening the fence wire, the corners are taking stresses from two directions.

This is from my days on the farm helping my dad.

[Pappy]

Are we talking privacy, chain link, barbed wire?

[stormdog74]

Sorry not to be more specific, but it is a normal wood privacy fence. I am using postmaster fence posts

http://www.fenceonline.com/pdf/insta...er-Install.pdf

and I am hoping to never have to replace the posts again - well, at least for 20-30 years I plan to be here.

[stormdog74]

One more thing - it is 6 ft high. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks!

[wardprobst]

Eight foot will be ok, just be sure to do 3 runners for the slats, high, middle, low. The main problems I've seen have been when the fence co. uses just 2 runners.
DP

[Hoover]

Okay then!! Yes according to the pdf file 8 ft spacing is sufficient, be sure to double up corner and gate posts as recommended. Wardprobst is correct in recommending 3 rails for the fence. Much stronger and less likely to sag over time. Good Luck, and have fun!!

[stormdog74]

Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it. Yeah, the fence I have now was put in with two rails, and some posts were more than 8 ft apart, by the builder and I am planning to do it right this time - hopefully the last time for the posts!

Thanks again!

[iceman61]

Rail spacing

Another thing that will help strengthen a fence is how you do your rails. On a 3 rail fence, don't use all 8' rails or all 16' rails. Alternate your rails using a combination of 8' & 16' rails so that no one post has all 3 rail joints on it. The exception will be corner posts. Using this type of rail spacing will help to strengthen your fence.

[stormdog74]

How would I go about doing a 16' rail, particularly with postmaster posts? It is a good idea I hadn't thought of, but I am not sure how I can make it work.

[Tom Slick]

You'll have to use 8' rails with the postmaster posts unless you added the 16' rail on top of the top rail above the post. If you did add a 16' top rail to make an upside down "L" shape you'd add some horizontal stiffness. you'd want the top-top rail to have its joints land somewhere other then on top of the post, that will reinforce the joints. Adding an extra top post is probably overengineering when using the postmaster system though.

If that doesn't make sense I can draw something.

[jAngiel]

I have never heard of those posts before, let us know how they hold up. Here in Oklahoma we get serious wind that will snap 4x4's and galvanized posts (usually used for chain link). The last time I build my fence I used well casings but the corners and gates are a PITA. I may have to check into those posts, they look promising.

[stormdog74]

You'll have to use 8' rails with the postmaster posts unless you added the 16' rail on top of the top rail above the post. If you did add a 16' top rail to make an upside down "L" shape you'd add some horizontal stiffness. you'd want the top-top rail to have its joints land somewhere other then on top of the post, that will reinforce the joints. Adding an extra top post is probably overengineering when using the postmaster system though.

If that doesn't make sense I can draw something.

Yes, I understand what you are saying, and I think you are right that it might be a bit much considering the posts I am using - thanks for responding.

[stormdog74]

I have never heard of those posts before, let us know how they hold up. Here in Oklahoma we get serious wind that will snap 4x4's and galvanized posts (usually used for chain link). The last time I build my fence I used well casings but the corners and gates are a PITA. I may have to check into those posts, they look promising.

They are pretty solid - of course, I will probably only let you know if they fail as with fences no news is good news!