Knock-Down Fasteners

[jackellis]

I'm sure this topic has been discussed before but I couldn't find any old posts.

What's the prevailing opinion on using knock-down fasteners to build cabinets that will be wall-hung and could be very heavily loaded. They would be plywood rather than particle board or MDF.

I will have a bunch to make and I'm thinking that if I do it this way, I can cut the parts, install the fasteners, assemble them to verify fit, then take them apart, finish them, and store them flat until the place they're intended to be installed is built. These are mostly shop and garage cabinets, not kitchen cabinets or office furniture, so I want strength but I'm not making works of art.

[atgcpaul]

You could also use screws and grooves/dados to make your cabinets if you
don't mind seeing the screw heads. IMHO, a lot cheaper and easier to use
than KD hardware. You still don't have to use glue

If you're set on KD bolts and cams, nearly all the weight of a hanging
cabinet is supported by the back. That is your most important component.
Use a strong back that sits in a groove in the sides and top. The sides
should flank the top and bottom, not sit between the top and bottom.

Either make or buy jigs that will help you install the KD hardware properly.
The construction of your cabinets will probably take no time but getting those
holes lined up for your bolts and cams will take the most time and care.

Good luck,
Paul

[eddy merckx]

I'm with Paul. Why not build them with screws instead? Way cheaper and easier for essentially the same result. You could predrill and countersink all the holes, then just screw in a few for the test fit. Easy to assemble and disassemble with your drill. Then you can glue and use all the screws during final assembly.

Eddy

[bigangelman]

Make the backs out of 1/2 plywood set in from the back 1/2" . Near the top & bottom of the backs fill it in with 1/2" plywood strips, only the top strip rip with a 45° bevel mount it so that the bevel faces inward. Those strips should be flush to the wall when installed. To hang them make another strip with the bevel mounted on the wall opposite. So all you have to do is take your time level and mount the strip on the wall, marking your studs slightly above & below the cabinets. Lift them up and hook them on the wall strip, you them can put more screws through the backs into the studs.

Tom

[docrowan]

Make the backs out of 1/2 plywood set in from the back 1/2" . Near the top & bottom of the backs fill it in with 1/2" plywood strips, only the top strip rip with a 45° bevel mount it so that the bevel faces inward. Those strips should be flush to the wall when installed. To hang them make another strip with the bevel mounted on the wall opposite. So all you have to do is take your time level and mount the strip on the wall, marking your studs slightly above & below the cabinets. Lift them up and hook them on the wall strip, you them can put more screws through the backs into the studs.

Tom

Don't forget a relief cut in the sides of the cabinets so the cleat on the wall can clear it. Otherwise you'll only be able to mount short cleats on the wall that would only be as long as the cabinet is wide and then you lose all the benefit of leveling once.