Ever use OSB for shop projects?

[cgallery]

Anyone ever use OSB for shop projects (like a tool stand, for example)?

My bench's base is made of LVL (Laminated Veneer Lumber) that I've painted a dark gray, and I think it looks great for what it is.

So I want to build a small cabinet for holding a piece of machinery and was looking at materials at HD and saw that a 4x8 sheet of 5/8" OSB is $11, much cheaper and flatter than any plywood that they have. It is even less expensive (and nowhere near as heavy and seems stronger, too) than the MDF and Melamine-covered particle board!

Am I likely to find metal in the stuff? Anything I should know about it that makes it unsuitable for a shop project?

[Tequila]

Here's a comparison:
http://www.umass.edu/bmatwt/publicat...s_plywood.html

[OpaDC]

Nice link Joe. Was wondering about the same thing. A good read.

cgallery, I'm guessing the floods didn't make it your way. Good thing!

[cgallery]

Thanks for the read, Joe, it is applicable to what I'm doing and even provides some nice history.

Opa, we had approx. 7" of rain in two days here (northern suburb of Milwaukee). My downspouts were full of the helicopter seeds from the just recent seeding season. I climbed out a window and stuck my hand in the aluminum gutters/downspouts during a massive lightning storm to clear them.

I had thought about leaving a letter to the Darwin award committee just in case of my demise. It would have read something like, "I knew it was risky but I was trying to save my shop--any guy should understand that."

[HauntedBranch]

I hope this is not stealing a thread, but on the same subject, what characteristic of OSB makes it unsuitable for workbench tops and even router table tops (covered by plastic laminate)?

Phil

[cgallery]

I hope this is not stealing a thread, but on the same subject, what characteristic of OSB makes it unsuitable for workbench tops and even router table tops (covered by plastic laminate)?

Phil

The pieces I looked at were much flatter than the normal BORG plywood, but not as flat as the MDF. And for a router table, you want flat.

Also, one side of OSB is sanded, but due to the construction of the material, there are still surface "voids" between some chips. This may telegraph through the laminate.

[cabinetman]

OSB has come a long way since "waferboard". From my experience with it, I find it comparable to plywood in several areas. If you use it for cabinetry or structural applications, I would seal the material, especially the edges to protect it from moisture.
.

[JimD]

I built base cabinets under my RAS and CMS using 3/4 OSB. I glued softwood edges to the front edge so I do not have to look at the OSB. My drawers slide on plywood or hardwood runners glued and nailed to the OSB.

The walls of my shop are 7/16 OSB and the ceiling is 1/4 OSB.

If the appearance is not an issue, I do not think usage for applications where you would normally use plywood should be an issue. The strength is similar (as the article states). OSB is much stronger and more durable than MDF or particle board.

My upper cabinets are AC plywood but could have been made of OSB. I do not love the appearance or like working with it as much as plywood and I like solid wood much better than either but the price and durability are both good for OSB. I used a sink cutout backed by 3/4 plwood for my router table top but I think OSB would be better than MDF because it is stronger and would have less tendency to sag. Laminating another layer is complicated by the dimpled underside, however.

Jim

[LarryG]

I've used it for the substrate layer of utility-type work counters and benches, topped by a layer of 1/4" hardboard. JimD covered the pluses and minuses well. If you don't mind the look, there are no serious issues other than one side being a bit lumpy.

Am I likely to find metal in the stuff? Anything I should know about it that makes it unsuitable for a shop project?

I've seen some suspicious-looking shiny spots that made me wonder but have never seen any sparks fly; still, I only cut it with a circular saw and a blade I don't particularly care about. BTW, cutting it produces sawdust with a mealy look and feel to it, and it seems like there's an awful lot of it. Wearing a dust mask or better would be a good idea.

[cgallery]

Last night I did a little experiment where I took some OSB scraps and did some 90-degree corners with biscuits. I had some concern that the swelling of the biscuits would push the OSB laminations apart. I had further concerns that the moisture from the wood would cause problems w/ the OSB.

Neither concern materialized, though. I was able to make a very strong corner. A six-sided OSB box with a brace down the middle will be plenty strong for my application.

But like Cabinetman has said, this stuff does absorb moisture and swell where it has been cut.

However, I will be painting it. So the next question...

Is a Bin-type primer (I think Bin is shellac) okay for this stuff? I'd do Bin (cause I still have a lot of it) as a primer coat and then my porch paint for the finish coat.

[JimD]

I don't think there are any special paint required for OSB. You may want to consider filling it first, however. I did an outdoor project with it (the underside of a curved porch roof) and used a think coat of bondo to fill the voids. In my shop, I used a skim coat of drywall compound to smooth it out for the walls. I would try paint on a scrap first to make sure the appearance is OK. It will stick but the voids will become more visible.

Jim

[cgallery]

Thanks for the painting tips, Jim. I will experiment with it a little.

BTW, I have noticed the OSB kinda warp a little. The material I have is 5/8". It has warped in the 48" dimension, and stayed very flat in the 96" dimension. Nothing I can't pull out of it.

But I wonder, have you noticed any warping in your cabinets?

[JimD]

No, the OSB I have used in cabinets has stayed straight but it is fastened to other pieces of the cabinets so that is what I would expect. The 1/4 in the ceiling of my shop warps around a little. I think OSB may move a little more with humidity changes than particle board or MDF - for the same reason it is stronger. While the wood chips are pretty random, they are big enough to move some.

Jim