Rabbeting Technique

[Tarheel]

I have both a stacked dado set and a router table.

When a rabbet is needed on the end of a piece of stock (plywood) 12" wide x 48" long, should I be trying to use either TS sacrificial fence or my RT fence to cut the rabbet? The piece just seems too long for me to ensure that I keep the end tight to the fence(s).

In the past, I have used a piloted rabbet set in my plunge router and just run it freehand, but there has to be a faster way.

I have even thought about building yet another crosscut sled (TS) to be used exclusively to cut rabbets and dado's on the TS.

I would be curious to get a consensus as to the most accurate.\/safest method.

Thanks in advance for your ideas!

Wayne

[RodKirby]

Wherever I've had "oversize" pieces to rabbet, I simply use an outfeed support - VERY carefully adjusted to the router table height.

You can position the support to be "a little" further away from the router table than center of the workpiece length, so it takes most of the weight. Holding the workpiece tight to the fence is a breeze .

Note: Do a dry run with the router off - to make sure the outfeed is positioned properly - you don't want the workpiece to fall off the outfeed as you're nearing the end of the rabbet

[Thom2]

A lot of variables here ... I'll assume a 3/8x3/8 rabbet for the sake of replying.

For "one off's" I'd use the router table as it's quicker and easier to set up (at least IMO), but I'd take at least 2 passes for a rabbet like that.

If I had a few to do (more than 3'ish?), I'd take the time to set up the dado stack as it can remove all the material in one pass.

workpiece support is the critical thing (as mentioned). On the BT, the rails and tables can be shifted rather easily to allow the SMT or whatever as your support (unless you've got a permanent wing arrangement) ... not knowing exactly what your setups are really hinders a guess as to what will work for you.

but my general rule of thumb is router table for onesies or twosies .... dado stack if it's going to be much more than that

[poolhound]

Not sure which edge you are trying to rabbet but either way for a piece this large I would use a router with an edge guide clamped to the work piece.

This way you can support the work, keep it stable and still get a clean rabbet. At least IMHO this would seem to be the simplest and safest way for such a large piece.

[cabinetman]

I would use a handheld router with a rabbeting bit with a bearing, and clamp the stock to the bench. Depending on the plywood, it could be done in one pass. Or, with the ply clamped to the bench with a straight edge clamped and a straight bit. Or with the piece clamped to the bench, an edge guide and a straight bit. Clamping stock would allow the use of two hands on the router. A variety of rabbet sizes can be achieved with bit/bearing interchange.

To do that example on a router table (straight bit/no bearing), I would use a sled type support for the length involved.
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[JimD]

I rarely have only one rabbet to make. When I do, I sometimes use the table saw either to nibble it with the normal blade or to cut in two passes, one with the board vertical. Both cuts are made with the edge being rabbetted against the rip fence.

For a bunch of rabbets, it is time to take out the stacked dado set. Again, you want the edge against the fence for something this narrow and long. It is safe for both you and the board because if you get away from the fence, you just have to recut. You will not ruin the piece.

If it was a dado near the middle, that is tougher. It is not very safe to do against the rip fence so a router setup would be a better option. I have a router jig just for that operation.

Jim

[Tarheel]

Thanks for all of the input, all!!!

I am actually placing a rabbet at the end of each of the 48" sides. This means that I will have about 12" of material to hold tight to the sacrificial fence. (Oh ya. I am using a Craftsman 22124 zipcode saw with a Freud stacked dado set.) I have 8 sides to do (4 cabinets).

I have used my handheld router with multiple passes, but it does take a while to cut all of these rabbets accurately.

Guess I will crank up the dado set, set it up once and just just start cutting!!

Thanks again!

Wayne

[Crockett]

I make a lot frames, some as long as 5'. I use the table saw in two passes to make mine, as mentioned above. If you set the blade to 3/8" and use a feather board to hold the stock against the fence it makes quick work of it. You only have to adjust the feather board and fence once. I usually draw the rabbet on the end of the stock first to help set the fence correctly and then run all the cuts. Accurate, fast and safe, especially for a piece that size.
just my thought on it.
Al