Question (in video) on scribing baseboard for built-in

[GaryA]

I've been playing around with throwing video up on YouTube from my Mac (unbelievable how easy it is), and thought I'd try to post this as a video question. Let me know if you guys have any ideas. Thanks!

The link to my video question: http://youtube.com/watch?v=9zsKwfYZ4ec

[cabinetman]

What you have is a very common problem. There are a few solutions. The first is an actual scribing technique.

Set the top of the base well above the actual mounting height, but make sure it's straight to the cabinet. The bottom edge should be above the floor where it will eventually fit. IOW, this is to create a gap below the base. This can be done with shims, or use a few small finish nails not fully seated to hold the base in place. Then using a compass, (the kind with a pencil), take the metal point of the compass and position it down below the base (in the gap) to the floor where the base will eventually sit.

Starting at one end the point will run on the floor and the pencil will run on the base creating a duplicate line. The happy medium is found where your adjustment for the compass will only take a minimum off up to the highest point. Ideally the line will be drawn copying the floor and the lowest point on the base matches the floor and likewise the highest. The higher it is drawn on the base, the lower the base will be sitting. Once you have copied that line, you may need a jig saw, or a hand plane, band saw, etc, whatever choice you decide on how to scribe off the waste.

A quick fix to your problem is to install the base with the irregularities on the bottom, and then apply a small shoe moulding to the bottom front of the base to cover the irregularities. The shoe usually conforms enough to cover. Since you have a white finish use a caulk like Polyseamseal to finish off.
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[ryanps]

Sorry I can't be of any help with your problem but I just wanted to say that was a very cool way of asking your question. I am going to attempt that in the future with any questions I have. I find I am overly visual -- I really need to see something rather than have it described to me.

[GaryA]

What you have is a very common problem. There are a few solutions. The first is an actual scribing technique.

Set the top of the base well above the actual mounting height, but make sure it's straight to the cabinet. The bottom edge should be above the floor where it will eventually fit. IOW, this is to create a gap below the base. This can be done with shims, or use a few small finish nails not fully seated to hold the base in place. Then using a compass, (the kind with a pencil), take the metal point of the compass and position it down below the base (in the gap) to the floor where the base will eventually sit.

Starting at one end the point will run on the floor and the pencil will run on the base creating a duplicate line. The happy medium is found where your adjustment for the compass will only take a minimum off up to the highest point. Ideally the line will be drawn copying the floor and the lowest point on the base matches the floor and likewise the highest. The higher it is drawn on the base, the lower the base will be sitting. Once you have copied that line, you may need a jig saw, or a hand plane, band saw, etc, whatever choice you decide on how to scribe off the waste.


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Ahhh...ok....now I've got it! I've actually got to take off some height of material as well as the scribing, so I guess my starting point then should be minus that material off the base first, then scribe. Thanks Cabinetman!

[GaryA]

Sorry I can't be of any help with your problem but I just wanted to say that was a very cool way of asking your question. I am going to attempt that in the future with any questions I have. I find I am overly visual -- I really need to see something rather than have it described to me.

Thanks...yep, I am the same way! And I love playing w/ video. I may try that for things I cant explain so well. YouTube is a lot easier than I thought it would be too....

[cabinetman]

Ahhh...ok....now I've got it! I've actually got to take off some height of material as well as the scribing, so I guess my starting point then should be minus that material off the base first, then scribe. Thanks Cabinetman!

If you are going to presize the height of the base prior to making your scribe line, I'd like to clear up an important point. The gap allowed to do the scribe line is to be able to get under the base with the compass. The base can be held (up) also by double sided tape if you don't want to use shims or finish nails. In other conditions like a hard floor (non carpeted floor) in front of the bottom of the cabinet, it's much easier to get a good point of reference.

But, what is critical is to make sure that your measure from the lowest point is correct so you don't presize the base to be too short in height.
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[GaryA]

If you are going to presize the height of the base prior to making your scribe line, I'd like to clear up an important point. The gap allowed to do the scribe line is to be able to get under the base with the compass. The base can be held (up) also by double sided tape if you don't want to use shims or finish nails. In other conditions like a hard floor (non carpeted floor) in front of the bottom of the cabinet, it's much easier to get a good point of reference.

But, what is critical is to make sure that your measure from the lowest point is correct so you don't presize the base to be too short in height.
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Good point - I just did a re-measure (and this makes sense- duh) - my lowest point on that right side (which was basically when the baseboard was installed (PRE-carpet during construction) is 5 1/4 (same height of the base which is the same as the base in the rest of the house). So, what I'm actually competing with is the difference of the height of the carpet, as I installed the built-in sub-base (ripped down 2x6 frame) OVER the carpet.

The only thing I'm a little sketchy about now is how well (or stable) of a reference scribe line that the carpet is going to make....because thats what you're saying right - raise the base, then scribe with the pencil side of the compass on the base and the other end riding on the carpet, right? I guess I'll just be careful to apply the same pressure into the carpet, or maybe I lay down a tight piece of tape on the carpet first??

[cabinetman]

The only thing I'm a little sketchy about now is how well (or stable) of a reference scribe line that the carpet is going to make....because thats what you're saying right - raise the base, then scribe with the pencil side of the compass on the base and the other end riding on the carpet, right? I guess I'll just be careful to apply the same pressure into the carpet, or maybe I lay down a tight piece of tape on the carpet first??

Having a firm reference surface for the non-pencil end can be a challenge. With carpet, you may be dealing with a tack strip. There aren't a lot of choices. You can mash it down the best you can, or remove the tack strip, as the base may hold down the carpet. Dulling the point on the compass may help and dragging it instead of standing it up helps. Tape may help too. Try to keep both ends of the compass in line vertically to transfer the line.
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[GaryA]

Having a firm reference surface for the non-pencil end can be a challenge. With carpet, you may be dealing with a tack strip. There aren't a lot of choices. You can mash it down the best you can, or remove the tack strip, as the base may hold down the carpet. Dulling the point on the compass may help and dragging it instead of standing it up helps. Tape may help too. Try to keep both ends of the compass in line vertically to transfer the line.
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There is no tack strip, as the carpet tacks up against the wall under the built-ins. What if I cut the carpet right at the base of the built-in frame, dont worry about scribing (so I can use the full piece) , then put a tack strip (which I know nothing about) to hold it down?

[91FE]

There is no tack strip, as the carpet tacks up against the wall under the built-ins. What if I cut the carpet right at the base of the built-in frame, dont worry about scribing (so I can use the full piece) , then put a tack strip (which I know nothing about) to hold it down?

Yep...that's how I'd do it. The tack strip is easy. Pull your carpet back, nail it down, and get (rent, or buy cheap from HF) a carpet kicker to stretch the carpet over the tack strip.

[GaryA]

Yep...that's how I'd do it. The tack strip is easy. Pull your carpet back, nail it down, and get (rent, or buy cheap from HF) a carpet kicker to stretch the carpet over the tack strip.

Thanks...thats how I am going to go. As far as the placement of the tack strip...how far away from the baseboard?

[91FE]

Sorry for the slow answer...I lost track of this thread. If you haven't done it already, the tack strip gets nailed down about 1/2" - 3/4" away from the wall (entertainment center in your case). Make sure you leave enough room to tuck the carpet under your new base. Good luck.

[cabinetman]

A reminder about tack strip. If the cabinetry has a recessed toe kick which is integral with the cabinet, swinging a hammer to install tack strip may be difficult for installed work.
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[Anthony]

video removed?

Th video is gone it seems but in general regrding scribing, and please someone correct any flaws..
but you dont have to use an often difficult to use compass..you can use a solid piece of plywood with the pencil taped , held to the top,... the thickness of the wood can be whatever you need to to scribe line on the work piece, that way you can press down pretty firmly against the carpet and slide along. Then test fit your piece in place adjust it as needed and then rip the excess height/width off the top.
I have done this with baseboard on a porch that i recently wainscotted where i had some wide boards as baseboard that had some curvature to them as well as a porch deck that sloped a bit over a long length

Anthony