Wall mounted shelves

[rnelson0]

Does anyone have some good design tips for building wall-mounted shelves? I have two types I want to build.

1) Pantry or Closet shelves. These shelves would be made of a single plank 12" or 16" in depth and secured against three walls, or in the case of an L, 4 walls total. I am thinking that the proper way to do this is to put a 1xsomething cleat around the walls, cut the plank to size, and then secure it on top of the cleats. Screws and paint optional depending on the use.

2) Open space shelves. These would again be wood plans but secured against a single wall with no side support. Here there's a variety of options to choose - good old metal L brackets, the adjustable shelf systems, or some sort of cleat system I'm not envisioning.

Does anyone have some basic design suggestions? I'm more interested in the open space shelves, as my pantries and closets currently have at least that crappy wireframe shelf system, even if I don't like it. The shop doesn't have any shelves where I want them and I need to figure that out. Shelves would be anywhere from 24" to 60" long and would be used to support modest weight - caulk tubes, sandpaper, screws, planes, etc. The heaviest object would be my stereo on a single shelf, the next heaviest might be a small tub of screws. Usability is my first concern, followed by cost and aesthetics in that order.

Thanks for any tips.

[siliconbauhaus]

Number 1 sounds fine. You could use 3/4 ply instead of a solid board and make a reinforcing edge in solid wood on the exposed face to help against sagging.

Number 2 sounds fine as well. One option would be to make torsion boxes for your shelves. If you know exactly where you want them and done plan on moving them they're very nice as they "float". You could do the same in your shop if you have exposed studs but instead of glueing the torsion box to a wall cleat you can use a couple of pieces of rebar. Drill the studs and wack the rebar into the stud and then slide your shelf so the rebar goes into pockets in the tb shelf. Certainly a bit more work involved though.

[cabinetman]

I'd suggest an adjustable method. This may be too simple, but you could just use standards and brackets.

Or, line the supporting walls with 1/4" pegboard, and use shelf clips and sheet stock for shelves (maybe even melamine).

Or, line the supporting walls with a decorative plywood, and drill adjustment holes and use shelf clips.
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[rnelson0]

I have the adjustable shelf rails and brackets, the previous owner had some of those crappy wireframe shelves - really bad for things like screws or glue bottles that will tip. I was thinking of just putting a board on them but then thought, "Hey, I'm a woodworker, I should just build it all out of wood!"

It occured to me shortly after posting that I could just cut a 3/4-1" wide bracket, about the same size as the metal brackets, and I'd have a good brace. Put some 1x stock against the wall, screw through that into the studs, and I should be good to go. It does seem excessive, though, for what is really just a shelf that will hold things. Not really a need for heirloom quality work

I'll probably try the plywood with a face on the edge with the metal brackets this weekend. Does anyone have a weight calculator for various thicknesses of plywood?

Thanks.

[cabinetman]

Does anyone have a weight calculator for various thicknesses of plywood?

Thanks.

Give the SAGULATOR a try.
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[crokett]

As I live longer I am learning to like simple. I'd just cover the wire frame shelves with some 1/4 ply or hardboard and be done with it. I mean, you have the shelving already there, you might as well use it. The woodworking piece is you could put wood edging on the front of the shelves to give it a wood look.

[rnelson0]

Give the SAGULATOR a try.

Okay, I'm not really sure I get this. I want to build a 7' shelf that's 16" deep and I'll put some poplar or white pine face on it. My options are 1/2" or 3/4" plywood with a face that's 1x1. I will screw it to the brackets, so I presume that means "fixed" versus floating, where weight between the brackets is free to pull the edges up.

This gives me an 84x16x1 shelf. What about the edge? According to the diagram, the depth and thickness should be 1, according to note 10 they should be 1 and 84, respectively. Using 25lb/ft uniform load distribution, the two edge options give me either .129in/ft or .004in/ft, a drastic difference.

I get the feeling that I'd be fine with 1/2" ply with a 1x1 face, but I want to learn how to use the sagulator for real bookshelves. I don't mind replacing some sagging plywood in a few years, but I'll be real upset if a hardwood bookcase only lasts a few years.

I'd just cover the wire frame shelves with some 1/4 ply or hardboard and be done with it. I mean, you have the shelving already there, you might as well use it.

The wire frame is obtrusive and would prevent the wood from lying truly flat. Plus, I think it has more value in being sold on Craigslist I'll definitely keep the brackets and rehang them, though.

I *really* want to get these shelves out of the bedroom closet. The variant that has a hanging rod is irritating. The shelf has a lip that curls down and there's maybe an inch between that and the rod. Because the shelf is a wireframe, it's easy to hang items on the wrong wire, or for things to get caught. Why people can't just get a few pieces of wood and run them as a shelf with a wood rod underneath I'll never know. These wireframe pieces aren't *that* cheap - $15 for the corner piece alone! Idiot builders...

Thanks.

[cabinetman]

Why people can't just get a few pieces of wood and run them as a shelf with a wood rod underneath I'll never know.

Thanks.

The old builder provided shelf/rod support bracket was exactly that. Of course those were the days when simple was good enough.
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http://www.organizeit.com/images/shelfrodbrac.jpg
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[drumpriest]

You can certainly do this on the cheap and have some fun making the brackets.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=32922

Just depends upon how wood worky you want to get. I've always heard the term "floating shelves" to describe the ones that look as though there isn't a support beneith them. The shelves in my project above "float" as they are not connected to the brackets in any way. They could be, but be careful to not attach them in multiple places if you feel there will be some wood movement involved.