Fastening T-Track?

[Tarheel]

Over the last year I have been putting together a few jigs for the shop using 3/4 BB and the Rockler T-track kits.

Up 'til now I have been using #6 32 1/4" machine screws and #6 32 T-nuts from the BORG. I apply a little 5 minute epoxy as well for the grip. While this seems to work ok, it is a real pain - drill the T-track for the size of the T-nut barrel, countersink the T-track, drill a through hole through the BB base, countersink the bottom of the BB base for the T-nut base and flatten the protruding barrel end of the T-nut! Way too many steps and you really need to be careful about alignment.

There has to an easierfaster way to do this.

Is there anyone out there that offer a quicker method? Anybody tried these from LeeValley?

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43576,52799

Just looking for a simpler solution......

Thanks

Wayne

[os1kne]

The set from Lee valley looks pretty nice, but a bit spendy.

I've had good success with routing a groove for the Rockler t-track and securing the t-track with Liquid-nail construction adhesive (it comes in a tube, like caulk, you can usually find it in the paint section of Home Depot / Lowes for around $2/tube if I remember correctly). You will need to clamp the t-track down flush for a few hours while the Liquid-nail cures.

Good luck!

[cabinetman]

The set from Lee valley looks pretty nice, but a bit spendy.

I've had good success with routing a groove for the Rockler t-track and securing the t-track with Liquid-nail construction adhesive (it comes in a tube, like caulk, you can usually find it in the paint section of Home Depot / Lowes for around $2/tube if I remember correctly). You will need to clamp the t-track down flush for a few hours while the Liquid-nail cures.

Good luck!

Liquid nail works good when it's flashed off before assembly. IOW, apply LN to the part, press in place and remove right away. Allow about five minutes to flash off and press back into place. Depending on the surfaces and the fit, it may not need a long dry time or an extended period of pressure.
.

[cgallery]

I use the Rockler bit quite a lot:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...t%2Dslot%20bit

I use it on all my jigs. I have to use the special t-headed bolts (they're really just toilet bolts), but I don't mind because the stuff works so well.

Here is a miter sled I used the bit for:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=37453

[Tarheel]

I use the Rockler bit quite a lot:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...t%2Dslot%20bit

I use it on all my jigs. I have to use the special t-headed bolts (they're really just toilet bolts), but I don't mind because the stuff works so well.

Here is a miter sled I used the bit for:

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=37453

Thanks. I might just give the bit a try. I have plenty of T-bolts with all of the kits I have ordered from them!

Do you find that the slot wears ok, without laying in the T-track?

(By the way. I really like your sled design!!!)

Wayne

[DonHo]

I use a lot of different T track (depends on where I can get it cheapest), some comes drilled and counter sunk some doesn't. For that that isn't or if I need screws in a place where it's not predrilled, I drill and countersink the T track then use flathead screws and epoxy to attach the track in the grove. I have made a few jigs using only epoxy and even a few using only screws and haven't had a problem either way. If you are going to use just screws, I think you need more screws than the holes provided in predrilled T track.

Good luck,
DonHo

[cgallery]

Thanks. I might just give the bit a try. I have plenty of T-bolts with all of the kits I have ordered from them!

Do you find that the slot wears ok, without laying in the T-track?

(By the way. I really like your sled design!!!)

Wayne

I haven't had any wear problems with any of my wooden t-slots. I use 'em a lot, too.

The only aluminum I use is on my miter extension for my table saw. I used an Incra miter channel for that. But for all hold-downs, I use the t-slot bit in wood and it works great.

[BrazosJake]

3/4" is too thin for the Rockler track, it needs a 1/2" dado. The 3/4" bb is probably 18mm, leaving you with less than 1/4" to screw into. Is that why you're using the t-nuts?

Make your base thicker (at least 1") and you can simply screw the t-track with wood screws. I secure the Rockler track to a piece of 1/2" stock (plywood, solid wood, whatever) with #6 x 1/2 wood screws, then attach 1/2" stock (usually MDF) on either side of the t-track with contact adhesive. No routing required, though I do sometimes have to drill extra screw holes in the Rockler track.

[Tarheel]

3/4" is too thin for the Rockler track, it needs a 1/2" dado. The 3/4" bb is probably 18mm, leaving you with less than 1/4" to screw into. Is that why you're using the t-nuts?

Make your base thicker (at least 1") and you can simply screw the t-track with wood screws. I secure the Rockler track to a piece of 1/2" stock (plywood, solid wood, whatever) with #6 x 1/2 wood screws, then attach 1/2" stock (usually MDF) on either side of the t-track with contact adhesive. No routing required, though I do sometimes have to drill extra screw holes in the Rockler track.

Thats exactly why I resort to using T-nuts. I did think of going with a thicker base, but it then gets pretty heavy.

Thanks for your idea though, I may just try that on smaller jigs/sleds.

Wayne