Please Help A Dummy

[Bruce Cohen]

I'm looking for (if such an animal exists) really (almost) straight 2x4's to build panel saw.

I know well enough to stay away from the BORG or Lowe's.

Not building any "construction type" stuff, if I go to a local lumber yard and ask, will they laugh me out of the place.

I know I can get what I need by buying 8/4 Oak and ripping it, but I think that's way too over the top, and also my wallet.

Many thanks and no wise-a$$ comments from Cabinetman.

Bruce

[crokett]

Would steel studs work or not be strong enough? You could always reinforced them with wood.

[LinuxRandal]

Do you have a wood preference?

I only ask because you moan about the pretzel 2x4's at the lumber yard, yet you sound like you don't want hardwood (cost). (hoping I read it correctly)

If that is the case, look at something like 2x10's (or better) where you can cut your own, straighter grain out of them, and not spend hardwood money. Also you should be able to end up with fewer knots.

[eccentrictinkerer]

I helped a friend build a display a couple of years ago using laminated joist material. We used 2 x 12 and ripped to 2 x 4. Stuff is heavy but really straight.

Check with the lumber desk at a full service yard.

Good luck

[iceman61]

I don't know if you already have your plans or not but there was a project for a panel saw in ShopNotes issue 88 that looked top notch. To the best of my memory it utilized mostly plywood, 2x2 cross members & 1" conduit for the rails. I can't remember what material the 2x2's were but I can look it up for you tomorrow if need be. It appears to be one heck of a panel saw too.

BTW: what you would ask for at the lumber yard would be #1 lumber & to pick it out yourself. But the again you could end up with warped lumber then next day.

here is a video of the completed project:

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/088/...ilt-panel-saw/

[Tom Slick]

what about plywood cut and glued to the dimensional size you need?

[cabinetman]

what about plywood cut and glued to the dimensional size you need?

I also vote for plywood. It's much more stable and you can size it as needed. You could use most any face grain plywood as long as it is a veneer core plywood, and not a composite core. See, that ain't smart a$$.
.

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the suggestions.

I really need to do this with 2x4s, fir, pine, hemlock. Ya know, the cheap stuff, but straight. I know I can always buy the "snake crap" and run them thru my jointer then planer, but by then, I'd probably end up with tongue depressors.

Bruce

[cabinetman]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the suggestions.

I really need to do this with 2x4s, fir, pine, hemlock. Ya know, the cheap stuff, but straight. I know I can always buy the "snake crap" and run them thru my jointer then planer, but by then, I'd probably end up with tongue depressors.

Bruce

If that's the case go to a lumber yard, or the BORG, and rummage through a pile, til ya get what ya want. If they are straight at the yard, they may turn on ya when you give 'em a different home.
.

[LarryG]

I really need to do this with 2x4s, fir, pine, hemlock. Ya know, the cheap stuff, but straight.

In that case, LinuxRandal's and eccentrictinkerer's replies are the best compromise I've found: buy 2x10s or 2x12s -- the longer the better -- and rip them down to the required widths. The lumber in these larger sizes, which are used mainly for floor joists, is generally FAR better than typically found in 2x4 precut studs and plate stock. Figure out how much material you'll need, buy the necessary amount plus some overage, rough-cut the unripped joists to length, and let them acclimate to your shop for a couple weeks. Then, when you rip them down and crosscut them to final length, you should get some extremely nice "two-by-fours."

If that option is too much trouble, you'll just have to blow a big piece of a morning sorting through the bundles at the lumber yard until you find enough straight 2x4s for your project. But good luck with that. I've lost count of the number of times I've spent an hour unstacking and re-stacking 2x4s, only to leave empty-handed.

[ragswl4]

Home Depot (SoCal) has occasionally had kiln dried douglas fir 2x4s. They are much straighter (and lighter) than the normal stuff and you don't have to wait for them to dry out. The suggestions about 2x10s is also a great idea and you may even find that 2x6s will also work well.

[cabinetman]

The problem with ripping wider stock is that the cut may relieve internal stresses and allow the wood to do what it wants. Not too strange to have lumber "walking" out from the blade.

If the need is to have smooth edges, in laminating plywood up, you could add a solid edge to the lamination. Glued up ply is a predictable solution.
.

[LarryG]

The suggestions about 2x10s is also a great idea and you may even find that 2x6s will also work well.

In my case I should have noted that this was a tip I picked up from one of the woodworking mags maybe three years back. (Although I will further confess that it was a real forehead-slapper, because as much framing as I've done in my life, I should have realized this without being told. As soon as I read the suggestion, I asked myself, "WHY have I not thought of this before?!?")

It really is amazing how much nicer a "homemade" 2x4 is than the store-bought kind. At least around here, however, there is a price penalty of about $2 -- except not really, because the 2x4s are crap-quality spruce/pine/fir whereas the 2x12s are SYP. The storebought 2x4s are all over the place and full of knots, the ripped 2x4s are nice and straight, with fewer knots and better grain. All things considered, that extra couple of bucks is a bargain.

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey larry aand Rags,

Told you guys I'm stupid, never thought of that, at least with construction stock in mind. Thanks.

Now I have to figure out how to get it home in my Accord Coupe.

Bruce

[Black wallnut]

If strength is not an issue you might look at the finger joineted ones. Each short piece is close to 9" long and finger-jointed at each end. I purchased a bunch for my last building project and they were some of the straigtest I've ever seen. They were less money to boot. I used them for an interior non-load bearing wall.