Adirondack (ish) Plans

[dkerfoot]

I ran into this chair on the fww site and want to build it. Unfortunately, they don't have plans or any details on it because it is just a picture of a design contest entry:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...2061_01_xl.jpg

I am wondering if the structural pieces (seat and back frame) will be strong enough for practical use if made out of cedar. Lightweight and cheap are good in my book, so if they will be strong enough, I'd prefer to use cedar. But, I also want to be able to put my 200 lb self on it without fear.

Opinions? Should I go with white oak for the structure instead or will cedar be sufficient?

[HarmsWay]

Can't tell from the photo what the underlying structure is but it should be fine with 3/4" clear cedar. I have a set of paper plans from Lee Valley for their folding adirondack. I'm still looking for a suitable wood though. If I had access to reasonably priced white oak I'd do that. Or teak. Or mahogany. Each chair needs about 30 bf though so wood costs can make them pretty expensive and hard to justify to the wife. I'll probably just end up using cedar.

Bob

[ejs1097]

That chair structurally looks very similar to Norm's NYW Adirondack chair. I made a prototype of Norm's with pine and it's very strong and sturdy for well over 200#.

[Pappy]

The worst case would be to have to add a corner brace at the rear where the back rib and base meet. Easy to make decorative enough that it wouldn't be a detraction.

[Two Much]

dker, I just want to say that I love that chair. the design is beautiful. We have two
adirondack chairs, we bought them several years ago, I think they are cedar.

What I like about the design you showed (beside the beautiful rolled wood back) is the length of the back legs. Our chairs have long back legs and it's a tripping hazard. I bring one chair up on our deck for relaxing and have to put a floor plant behind it by the leg, so that I don't trip over the legs and break my neck. So, I'm always looking at the length of the back legs.
Back to your chair, good luck making it -- it's a beauty. You going to make a matching foot stool?

One question to the gentlemen who suggested white oak...you can use white oak outside?
what finish do you put on it?

Joann

[Richard in Smithville]

I think that if you find a plan( free if you can) and work out dimensions, you should be able to transfer over to this design. Start off on paper then make a scale mock up with some cheap pine. You should be able to work out the kinks that way. Also, along with Pappy's advice, I would space the seat slats at least 1/8" apart. Unless you plan on keeping the chair under cover all the time, those tight slats will puddle any water and promote aging.

[dkerfoot]

I have a swing I made two years ago (first big project) that uses very similar cedar slats. I agree on spacing them a bit further apart. The swing actually uses pressure treated lumber for the frame. Sounds awful, but it works fine now that it has faded. Especially since I have a cedar fence with PT posts, so it all blends in.

I didn't have my table saw or router yet when I built the project. I cut all the slats with my circular saw and hand radiused them with a block plane. The radiusing part was actually a peaceful and rewarding experience. Making all those rips with a circular saw was not!

I may take your advice and build a mockup of the frame out of pine first. The challenge for me will be working without measurements for the first time. I have found a few free plans for traditional Adirondack chairs and will use them for rough dimensions.

I love the chair more each time I look at it!

White oak is fairly good outside because it doesn't "wick" moisture (red oak does and is not as good outdoors). Here is a good little write-up: http://clarksoutdoorchairs.com/white_oak.html

[Pappy]

Another thought. Attache the uprights to the legs with half lap joints or, if you want to be really cool, sliding dovetails.