correcting bow

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • poolhound
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 3196
    • Phoenix, AZ
    • BT3100

    #16
    Originally posted by LarryG
    Reading through this thread, there's one thing I'm not clear on. Is this wood bowed (warping along its long face), or is it cupped (warping across its width)?

    If the latter, which I'm guessing it is, then the best approach -- for next time -- is to first let the lumber acclimate to your shop, then mill it four-square but slightly oversize, let it sit for a day or so and do its cupping thing (which it very likely will), then mill it to final size and incorporate it into your project immediately. It's nigh unto impossible to mill a rough board and not have it move around on you to some extent, especially if your shop isn't conditioned and is subject to wide temperature and humidity variations.
    Larry, its bowed (along length). I agree wholeheartedly with your approach. I did the first 3 steps just as you layed out and thats when it bowed. I am going to mill to "final" size tomorrow. I ripped and cross cut with plenty of room to edge and trim. When I thicknessed/Surface jointed I went down a little too close to final size as I now only have a small amount I can take off before becomming thinner than I had orginally intended.
    Jon

    Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
    ________________________________

    We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
    techzibits.com

    Comment

    • poolhound
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2006
      • 3196
      • Phoenix, AZ
      • BT3100

      #17
      Originally posted by cabinetman
      If I'm understanding your explanation, that the intent is to achieve a flat board from a bow, has some drawbacks. In the exaggerated drawing below, the dotted line represents the stock after planing, according to your method if I'm correct. Even achieving a flat board from a bow, considering the beginning thickness would have to be great enough to accommodate the desired thickness, internal stresses from the remainder of the board after stock removal would give way for any further movement.

      There is also the question concerning the safety of this type of planing procedure.
      .

      .

      As you say the picture is quite exaggerated. Trying to straighten highly warped board is generaly not that good an idea, it can be a waste of time and wood. Depending on the warp, cutting into smaller boards and then milling can yeild better results. Re: the use of the planer for this activity, its perfectly safe (if thats what you were concered about). Essentially the jointer and planer have very similar operations. The planer lacks a reference face (Bed of jointer) which is why you use a sled.
      Jon

      Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
      ________________________________

      We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
      techzibits.com

      Comment

      • poolhound
        Veteran Member
        • Mar 2006
        • 3196
        • Phoenix, AZ
        • BT3100

        #18
        I managed to square everything up today. I had to face joint and plane the boards down to 11/16. They are now flat albeit thinner than I had originally wanted. I will cut to final size and assemble tomorrow so hopefully they wont decide to warp overnight.
        Jon

        Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
        ________________________________

        We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
        techzibits.com

        Comment

        Working...