Ok, apparently I don't remember as much about it as I thought. Google returned a lot of links on cutting it from a log or making some on a bandsaw. I am trying to cut some veneer for a bookmatch for my marquetry project. I am using a circle cutter. I am not getting a super matching cut on each piece. Would it help to soak the veneer for a while? I think I need to to flatten it anyway. If I can't get a clean cut now through 2 layers of veneer, not sure I can when I do the marquetry.
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David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment. -
I use a really straight piece of wood and a router with a flush trip bit to make edges that join together.Alex -
Yes it is. The veneer I will use for the project is maple for the background and walnut for the 'shadow'. It is 1/16" thick. I am trying to cut two layers of maple to bookmatch but can see daylight in spots along the cut line. I could just use a shooting board and plane to match up the cuts but need to learn how to cut it correctly so I can do the marquetry pieces.
As for the router, I am trying not to use power tools on this project.David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.Comment
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If the veneer is particularly curly , wavy or bumpy, you may want to use a veneer softener. It will flatten the veneer so it can be cut properly. As for cutting, the method I stated in your marquetry thread is what I use.
Using a knife isn't easy and takes a lot of patience. The picture below has patterned cuts with a knife. These cabinets took a long time due to all the inlays involved. The wave lines and circles are inlaid flush to the surface. There were 7 different wave lengths for a total of 53 to inlay. The pattern for those I made from plexiglas.The circles were cut using a nickel for a pattern, and there were 27 of those.
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Hey David, I just finished a marquetry project.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=36591
Are you trying to do a 4 way bookmatch? Or a 2 way. If you read that thread you'll see my comments on my experience doing the bookmatch. I tried a lot of methods, and most failed due to the nature of the curly maple. I really did find that the best way was to use a hand plane to do it.
So much so that I did a tutorial...
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=veneer
Hope this helps, and GOOD LUCK!!! Consider sand shading as well, gives a lot of depth.Keith Z. Leonard
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If it helps at all we used to book match using an edge sander with a flat, straight platen. put the two edges together and hold them up to a strong light to see if there is any gap and sand some more if there is.Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas EdisonComment
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Mike,
Sorry I missed your reply in the last thread - forgot I posted it.
I think my main problem is trying to cut through both layers all in one go. I will clamp it under my matting guide and see what that does.
Keith, 2-way bookmatch. I was thinking about a shooting board to do flush the edges but as I said, I have to be able to cut with a knife since when I do the inlays I can't plane them flush.David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.Comment
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Trying to do it in one pass is not a good idea. Doing several passes and light pressure will allow you to concentrate on making the passes and positioning the knife the same for each pass. Think about this. If you vary the angle of the knife, you won't have a consistent cut. If you are cutting through two layers of 1/16", that's 1/8" total. If for instance your knife is tipped outboard of the cut, the top piece will be slightly larger than the bottom piece. Capiche?
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David
The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.Comment
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The problem with doing the edges with a knife on 1/16" stock is that you'll see the grind angle of the knife. Perhaps a veneer saw? It qualifies for the "no power tool" requirements, and can go through what ever thickness given enough time, also has no rake and cuts orthogonal edges that are good for glue ups.
You don't really cut through "all at once", but instead you nibble through it with multiple pull passes.
One other thought is that if you cut them together and there is any imperfection in the straight edge, that imperfection is doubled.
Lastly, little pinholes of light, while not perfect, is not tragic, by the time it's on a substrate they disappear. It's a judgment call as to what is really a problem and what isn't.
Whatever you do, try not to take off TOO much material, or you'll ruin the bookmatch effect.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...w&cookietest=1Keith Z. Leonard
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Thanks for all the replies fellas. I got some veneer softener today and will start by flattening it. After that I will try cutting with my mat cutter, at least for the bookmatches. If all else fails I will go with the plane or try a veneer saw.
Keith, I was given 2 boxes of complete (about 1.5" thick) fletches of maple, walnut and oak veneers. I am not sure how the veneer was cared for before me but the maple fletch I am working with is checked a little less than half way across each piece. I have been playing with cross cutting the check out and bookmatching 2 pieces. I may see what happens if I cut just to the side of each check and bookmatch that way, that way I can use once piece for each glueup.Last edited by crokett; 03-18-2008, 09:32 PM.David
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An update: the shadow profiles are cut out of the walnut. It is a much thinner veneer and easier to cut. I guess I did ok, my MIL could tell who they were.
I am going to look through the veneers I have and see if I have anything thinner than the maple for the background contrast. I ruined 3 sheets last night trying to follow the profile around with a knife.
David
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