Finish question

[lrogers]

I'm about ready to start the finish process on a new field box for my helos. The box is all wood, mostly 1/8th ply. I want a really slick painted finish on it that will stand up to the high nitro fuel I use.

Here is what I'm planning to do. If there is an easier way or if this is a bad idea, I'm all ears so suggest away!!

1. Sand it down with 100 grit paper (all ready done)
2. Sand it down with 220 grit paper
3. Sand it down with 320 grit paper
4. Apply a couple coats of thinned poly to seal the wood
5. Scuff with steel wool
6. Shoot a couple coats of color (going to be blue & orange)
7. Apply my graphics/decals
8. Apply a top coat to fuel proof (poly?????)

What do you think? Will this provide a smooth, glossy and durable finish?

[dkhoward]

Im not sure poly would be nitro fuel proof. I think I would opt for an epoxy based two part finish.

[Tom Slick]

I'd use automotive products if you want a fuel resistant high gloss finish. or a 2 part epoxy but it can be $$

[Uncle Cracker]

I'm definitely a ditto with the epoxy idea. There's got to be a formula that will hold up better than poly, although I don't know if anything will be totally impervious to nitro exposure.

[lrogers]

The best idea would be a 2 part automotive clear coat, but that stuff is nasty and requires proper equipment. I was thinking about the poly since there is a modeling paint called Poly-U that is fuel proof. There is also a product called Luster Kote that I have used in the past, but the fumes are pretty intense.

Can you believe it, I've actually reached a point in my life where I pay alot more attention to health & safety!

Epoxy is clear coat is definetly an option.

[cabinetman]

The best idea would be a 2 part automotive clear coat, but that stuff is nasty and requires proper equipment. I was thinking about the poly since there is a modeling paint called Poly-U that is fuel proof. There is also a product called Luster Kote that I have used in the past, but the fumes are pretty intense.

Can you believe it, I've actually reached a point in my life where I pay alot more attention to health & safety!

Epoxy is clear coat is definetly an option.

Just about anything that will be that protective will have some health issues, which can be controlled. If you were doing finish work on a daily basis, I'd definitely recommend a spray booth and a complete respirator (air assist) system.

But for a one time deal, a good respirator will protect what you inhale. Keep in mind that toxic effects enter the body in many ways, through the skin, eyes, ears, etc. Not trying to scare ya out of anything, just a reminder. Some of my health condition is due to my own stupidity over many years.

As to what to use, a common siphon cup gun will work just fine. For primers, an epoxy based primer with an adhesion promoter will work great. For top coats, epoxy based paints, or even base coat/clear coats can be used. The standard base coat/clear coat system is very easy to use following the directions. The color coat doesn't have to be absolutely perfect. With the clear coats I use, they are catalyzed on the spot, and flow great.

I would not use an oil based polyurethane.
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[rnelson0]

I'm about ready to start the finish process on a new field box for my helos.

I'm confused. You're building helicoptors?

But for a one time deal, a good respirator will protect what you inhale.

Like you said, a one-time deal isn't going to be a problem unless you accidentally drink some or otherwise expose yourself to a huge quantity. If you drive a car or inhale anywhere near a busy road, you've exposed yourself to more pollutants anyway, and you probably do that nearly every day.