Glass Cutting Jig You Can Make

[cabinetman]

I developed this jig in the late 70's. I got into doing commercial work like jewelry stores that incorporated glass into the casework. So, I got into cutting my own glass. This jig is made from 1/4" clear cast acrylic, and will allow for a 50" score line. It works just like a "T" square, but I call it an "L" square. All it takes is slight pressure on top and it doesn't move.

When my glass supplier saw this they wanted to sell them. I contacted many large suppliers, and sold many of these over the years.
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[chopnhack]

C-Man - tool genius, patent that bad boy before someone else does. Throw your name on it and retire

[atgcpaul]

Did you also have a method to removing the edge on the cut glass? I've cut
my own glass before, but I always appreciated that the glass shop could put
a small bevel on the edge or do a flame polish on the edge to get rid of the
sharp edge. I suppose most glass is captured in a frame but sometimes the
edges are left exposed as in the case of some shelving.

Just wondering,
Paul

[cobob]

Actually, glass work would make a nice thread. I do some & the edges are a problem. Surely there are multiple tricks for glass. I'm not particularly reliable cutting glass ... especially the thicker stuff. Do I just need to use the little glass cutter more 'reproducably'? etc.

[cabinetman]

Did you also have a method to removing the edge on the cut glass? I've cut
my own glass before, but I always appreciated that the glass shop could put
a small bevel on the edge or do a flame polish on the edge to get rid of the
sharp edge. I suppose most glass is captured in a frame but sometimes the
edges are left exposed as in the case of some shelving.

Just wondering,
Paul

The sanding (chamfering) of the sharp edges is called "seaming". For sanding the edges, You can use silicon carbide belts on a belt sander, or SC discs on a disk sander. For general edge work start with an 80x, and finish with 120x. Run the tool as slow as possible, by just bumping the trigger to keep it moving. You do this dry, and you don't want to heat up the glass. You could also use silicon carbide sheet paper (wet-or-dry) wrapped on a block of wood to take down an edge.

You can't get a high polished edge (cork polish) on glass with simple tools. What you can do is give the edge a smoothed finish, eliminating the sharpness.
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[Larryl]

The sanding (chamfering) of the sharp edges is called "seaming". For sanding the edges, You can use silicon carbide belts on a belt sander, or SC discs on a disk sander. For general edge work start with an 80x, and finish with 120x. Run the tool as slow as possible, by just bumping the trigger to keep it moving. You do this dry, and you don't want to heat up the glass. You could also use silicon carbide sheet paper (wet-or-dry) wrapped on a block of wood to take down an edge.

You can't get a high polished edge (cork polish) on glass with simple tools. What you can do is give the edge a smoothed finish, eliminating the sharpness.

This is great information, how thick can the glass be for the average amature woodworker to successfully work with hand held cutters/scorers? (Hope I am asking this correctly). Is it possable for an amature to achive rounded corners? I have wanted to build with some glass shelves or cover (end tables, etc.) with glass tops, but have not had the courage to try it.

[cabinetman]

This is great information, how thick can the glass be for the average amature woodworker to successfully work with hand held cutters/scorers? (Hope I am asking this correctly). Is it possable for an amature to achive rounded corners? I have wanted to build with some glass shelves or cover (end tables, etc.) with glass tops, but have not had the courage to try it.

You can score/snap thicknesses up to 3/8". Using a running pliers, to tap under the score line, a quick snap or break off the edge of a table works well. For a cutter, an oil filled replaceable head cutter works best.
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For oil, you can get away with a light mix of any light oil, even air tool oil and mineral spirits, or kerosene. Before you score a line, make sure the glass is absolutely clean. With a small brush, run a path of oil.

To round corners, you will be able to get small radii by just sanding on the corner to get a curve. It's gonna take a while. Keep in mind large radii, or large curves are cut and separated and wet sanded on a large wet belt sander. Not too feasible for home use. Since your sanding will be done dry, the activity has to be slow to keep it from heating up. Don't try to use any sanding materials other than silicon carbide (wet-or-dry).

As a bonus here's a good tip. You'll see in this image, a brass lever actuated suction cup tool with an adjustable side stop. That can be used with great effectiveness on the back side of a straightedge wherever you place the straightedge. It just keeps the straightedge from moving.
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