Advice on refinishing trim needed

[krogers]

I have a tudor house built in 1929. The interior trim of the first floor is stained oak. It is everywhere, doors, windows, casing and trim. A lot of it is dull, scuffed or scratched. I would like to "update" the finish. If possible, I want to avoid sanding down everything and restaining. Is it possible to strip just the finish layer? (And with it the grime, dirt and most of the scratches.) Given your advice in the past, the order of testing the finish is:

1. Denatured Alcohol = shellac
2. Laquer thinner = laquer
3. Mineral spirits = everything else

Please tell me if I have that order wrong. Given the history of the house I suspect it is shellac. It hasn't been refinished at any time. Is it possible to strip the shellac with alcohol and then refinish? Would you use shellac again or come back with poly? Since this is being done indoors I am looking for the least toxic method.

[Pappy]

I would think it is going to be either shellac or a varnish. Formby's makes several products for repairing old finishes on furniture that should work for you.

[cabinetman]

The problem with testing the finish, is that lacquer thinner will dissolve shellac, lacquer, or varnishes. Being that old, I would guess that the finish is likely a varnish or shellac as Pappy suggested.

With that much to refinish, sanding alone would be quite a task. Stripping with an indoor acceptable stripper (Citristrip), would work to a major degree but may not remove all.

You might try rubbing down the existing finish with bronze wool, or Scotchbrite pads, to clean it up and scuff it slightly. Recoating with shellac would be the fastest dry, or a waterbase polyurethane, both of which won't smell up the house. Depending on how much build you want, an oil base varnish or polyurethane would be a good choice, but would take the longest to dry and be the most aeromatic.
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[Lonnie in Orlando]

Another long-winded dissertation by Lonnie …

Let me start by saying that I am a confirmed "Old House Hugger." I feel that the less you do to change the original intent of the house, the better.

Your dark oak was common for Tudor houses. You are lucky that a previous owner didn't paint it "harvest gold" to be in style. Much of the feel and the value of the house come from its original finish woodwork. It may have darkened even more because the top coat darkened with age. Also, smoke, grime, and dirt have taken their toll. The dull surface doesn't reflect as much light, so it makes the wood look darker, too.

I suggest a good cleaning first. Try these on an inconspicuous place …
> Mineral spirits – it won't dissolve shellac or cured varnish.
> Cloth dampened with soap and water
> Turpentine.

You can disguise most of the scratches with some stain. Don’t worry about the dents and gouges … they are beauty marks.

If you like the look after cleaning, but the surface is still dull, you can buff gently with 0000 steel wool and Johnson's Paste wax.

If wax doesn't produce the luster that you want, remove the wax with mineral spirits and rub on a light top coat of the original finish.
> Varnish: 50-50 varnish/mineral spirits, store-bought wiping varnish, or Watco. I would probably not use poly.
> Shellac: Shellac, denatured alcohol, and BLO in a pseudo French polish procedure.
> Either: If you are a glutton for punishment, lightly buff with steel wool and wax in a couple of months.

I feel that any more drastic procedures will kill the soul of the house. It just won't have the same feel of 79 years of life.

But if you want to go further, you are in for some work. You could try something like Homer Formby's Refinisher, but don't go overboard on removing the finish and color. Follow up with a wiping varnish. You have a 90% chance of producing an uneven finish color and of dribbling on your walls and floors! Breathe deeply for the full effect of the chemicals.

The order of solvents to test for the finish is correct.
#1 Denatured alcohol will dissolve shellac only.
#2 Lacquer thinner will dissolve lacquer and shellac.
#3 Mineral spirits won't dissolve any of the cured finishes.

Finally, if you don't subscribe to "The Old House Journal," do so. https://secure.palmcoastd.com/pcd/do...ikey=003E1IWB2
(Not the same as "This Old House.")

The Old House Journal web site has "Talk" forums where you can post your question, too. Some responders are knowledgeable; some don't have a clue.
http://www.oldhousejournal.com/talk/index.shtml

Good luck with your old house,

- Lonnie

[krogers]

Thanks for all of your thoughts and tips. I had forgotten about Formby's for this project. I only think of those products as being for furniture. I have a door that I can remove to use for testing the best finish remover. As some have suggested, there is almost 80 years of dirt and grime. I am trying to find the method with the least amount of elbow grease and the lowest amount of fumes. There are only a copy of pieces of oak that need to replaced and therefore stained to match. Most of the work involves reviving the finish and evening out the scratches. Thanks again for your tips. - Kevin