Question on decorative moulding

[Powercat80]

Hey guys. I'm working with a decorative moulding like the one below for the first time. I was hoping to get some suggestions on the best way to make corners. The application is a rectangular raised ceiling in the kitchen. This particular pattern has a repeat every 10 inches and it is a swirl. So my question is: Is there any way to cut a miter at each corner so that they match? Or should I just use smooth corner blocks and butt a 90 degree edge against it. I was hoping that some of you that do allot of moulding might have dealt with this before. Thanks for any suggestions.

[cabinetman]

I would try to match up the corner, so the pattern follows. You may have to do some incremental cuts to get the pattern right. If the other ends run wild or is less important visually, let the pattern take its course. Or you may have to cut it so very little pattern gets lost. It looks like there is a small space between details (where it repeats) that could be a fudge factor.

If you block the corner, you could make a piece to match the overall shape of the moulding, sans the detail, but stands proud giving a slight reveal.
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[Powercat80]

Thanks

Cabinetman: I believe I get your point. By matching the corners, it may cause me to make a couple of extra butt joints in the middle. However I can use the gap point that you point out to make a clean transition. It does seem though that unless I get terribly lucky on the ceiling measurements, that there will be at least one point in the rectangle that the pattern won't quite match up, either at a corner or in the middle. Right?

With regards to using the same profile sans the reveal for corner blocks, it seems that I will still have the blunt edge (ie cross-section) of the reveal exposed when it meets up with the corner. Did I miss something?

Thanks for the input...

[cabinetman]

The corner block would be a thicker tracing than the moulding, so it will be ahead of the blunt edge. It would appear like a "focal point". As for matching up in the middle of a run, you can do that provided you aren't constrained for pattern on the other end.
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[JimD]

Cabinetman's suggestion would probably look the best. An easier way to do it that you might mock up to see if you like is to put a solid wood block that will project beyond the profile but is just plain, maybe with a partial turning or something on the bottom.

With blocks you do not need to miter the corners.

The other way would be perhaps the most difficult but you could also just cut this upside and backwards against a high fence on a CMS and match the pattern in the corners. Matching up the pattern seems quite necessary if the two pieces touch. An advantage of the blocks is the patterns wouldn't touch and I think a mis-match would be less necessary.

Jim

[Powercat80]

Good ideas!

I appreciate the input. Think I will try the miter option first. As long as the mis-match isn't too bad. I intend to attempt a little trial and error first as I will have some scrap anyway. If I'm unhappy with the results, I'll go with the block option.

thanks guy's

[chopnhack]

With a complicated pce of molding like that do yourself the favor of creating a jig to hold the molding at the right position when its upside down and backwards on the cms. I have used in the past a pce of plywood stretched across the cms screwed down to my aux. extensions on either side as a stop and the CMS's fence to "nest" the crown as it was being cut. I hope it comes out good for you.