Raised Panels on Table Saw

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  • FromWack
    Forum Newbie
    • Nov 2007
    • 18

    #1

    Raised Panels on Table Saw

    Just wondering if anyone has ever made a jig for raised panels on a TS. I need to make my first set of raised panels and wonder if anyone has any tips or techniques they could share. I know the basic concept, but would just like to know if anyone has any experience making them. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • Sawatzky
    Established Member
    • Apr 2005
    • 359
    • CA
    • Ridgid TS3650

    #2
    I have made them on the table saw, and they turned out pretty well. The easiest way is to make a high fence attatchment for you existing fence, and run the board through with the blade angled, Take small bites until you have what you want. There is a podcast entitled "5 things you never knew you could do with your table saw" at www.woodworkingonline.com. In that video, they explain how to do raised panels on the TS.

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    • catta12
      Established Member
      • Jan 2008
      • 250
      • Reno, NV
      • BTS20R

      #3
      http://www.woodworkingonline.com/cat...odcast/page/2/

      The TS podcast is on page 2 of the podcast list on the Woodworking online site.
      If you can read this you assembled wrong.


      Alan

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      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #4
        Originally posted by Sawatzky
        I have made them on the table saw, and they turned out pretty well. The easiest way is to make a high fence attatchment for you existing fence, and run the board through with the blade angled, Take small bites until you have what you want. There is a podcast entitled "5 things you never knew you could do with your table saw" at www.woodworkingonline.com. In that video, they explain how to do raised panels on the TS.

        I agree, it's not that hard to do. You can have a straight bevel, or, you can set the bevel in so the top of the blade leaves a reveal (step). As for panels, if you want to use plywood for a raised panel, you can edge it with solid wood, and then do the bevel or a profile to the edge. What you wind up with is a very stable panel without movement issues, and no endgrain showing. You could use a contrasting wood for the edge and create an interesting look.
        .

        Comment

        • WayneJ
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2004
          • 785
          • Elmwood Park, New Jersey, USA.

          #5
          Check out Shop Notes, vol 15 issue 87 pg 44. they have an article on just that, raised panels on your table saw. It came out may/june 2006, might be what your looking for.
          Wayne
          Wayne J

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          • Lonnie in Orlando
            Senior Member
            • May 2003
            • 649
            • Orlando, FL, USA.
            • BT3000

            #6
            Here are some links that may help:

            http://www.americanwoodworker.com/us...onth/main.html

            http://www.newwoodworker.com/bldtgdoor.html

            http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=60075

            http://home.earthlink.net/~us71na/raisedpanel.html

            http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...ed_coves.shtml

            http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/cove.htm

            http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/nmw030.asp

            I have cut a few coved edges in cherry and walnut to make tops for candle boxes. They are easy to cut and I was pleased with the results.

            My advice -
            > Experiment to find what works best for you.
            > Move the workpiece slowly across the blade - this will reduce the severity of saw marks and ease sanding
            > A curved card scraper may help clean up saw marks in addition to sand paper.
            > If your table and extention wings are not perfectly aligned with each other, place a piece of sheet goods on the saw to produce a flat surface and run your blade up thru it. Otherwise, you will make bumps in the cove where the workpiece moves over the uneven joint.
            > Practice the setup to find how to clamp the angled fence so that it does not move during the cuts.

            - Lonnie
            OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all

            Comment

            • rjwaldren
              Established Member
              • Nov 2007
              • 368
              • Fresno, CA

              #7
              Lonnie,
              Thanks for the links, I saved the post. I've seen writeups on cutting coved panels by pushing at an angle to the blade, but wondered how safe/effective it was. Sounds like you've had good results.

              Comment

              • FromWack
                Forum Newbie
                • Nov 2007
                • 18

                #8
                Thank you for all the suggestions.... They are just replacement doors to match existing ones in the kitchen. All painted white so I plan on using poplar for the stile and rails and MDF for the panel. MDF should allow me to tweak it right in a cost effective manner... thanks again

                Comment

                • stormdog74
                  Established Member
                  • Mar 2007
                  • 426
                  • Sacramento, CA
                  • Ridgid TS3650

                  #9
                  Another site:

                  http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/re...els/index.html

                  Comment

                  • FromWack
                    Forum Newbie
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 18

                    #10
                    Thanks for the new link. One of the best explained ones yet....by the way I will also be replacing some of the existing cabinet doors with glass panels. Do any of you have any advice on this? Can I use the same rail and stile bits? how should the glass fit? etc. Thanks again in advance

                    Comment

                    • JimD
                      Veteran Member
                      • Feb 2003
                      • 4187
                      • Lexington, SC.

                      #11
                      I have done glass doors without getting special bits. I made the frame the normal way and glued it up. Then I used a rabbeting bit to remove a 3/8 wide area on the back of the frame. You have to remove the corners by hand but that only takes a minute. I then made a piece of L-shaped moulding to hold the glass in place (for the inside of the door). LOML likes it (but she won't let me do glass doors in her kitchen because she says the inside of the cabinets is too messy).

                      Jim

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