Door design and function issue

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  • ironhat
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 2553
    • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
    • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

    #1

    Door design and function issue

    OK, here are the pics and the issues. These doors will be built with the rails and stiles at 90* from normal - standing on edge, so to speak. With these components resting on the shelves right now they are about 7/8" proud of the face frame but that can be bumped 3/4" at most (to be even with the face frame, exposing the full 1 5/8". This odd door frame is going to double as a 'picture frame' with some wooden silouettes cut from varying thicknesses of plywood as the subjects which will be mounted to the 3/16" thick back. I don't even know if this is going to work out but it's worth a try. This cab is purposly being made of scraps so that it resembles an antique piece in well used condition (I hear ya laughing out there - LOL). So, the issue is "what the heck do I do for hinges on this thing. I've been thinking an "H" hinge with one leg on the face frame and the other on the outside of the door edge, or a butt hinge. The butt would have one leg on the face frame and the other folded inward and hidden between the door and the face. The issue with that is that butt hinges aren't very attractive as a design element. OK, TIA for your input.
    Last edited by ironhat; 12-17-2007, 07:47 PM. Reason: clarity
    Blessings,
    Chiz
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    Sounds like a great idea. There are a few choices other than knife hinges that may work. Try this one, or maybe this one.
    .

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    • ironhat
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2004
      • 2553
      • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
      • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

      #3
      Thanks, c.man, I thought maybe you would jog the cobwebs outtta my head - OK, that's not possible but thanks. I had hoped for something that didn't steal the "charm" of a dilapidated cabinet and the first one is actually hidden pretty well. The issue with that one is that I'll need 'mm' drills. I didn't look them up yet but it can't be more than a a couple of bucks for the two - come to think of it I have a numbered drill set... Thanks again.
      Blessings,
      Chiz

      Comment

      • Bruce Cohen
        Veteran Member
        • May 2003
        • 2698
        • Nanuet, NY, USA.
        • BT3100

        #4
        Chiz,

        Not sure of the "look" you're trying to achieve, but check these out. Tyey're easy and (NO MORTICE).

        http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...1241,41257&ap=



        Bruce
        "Western civilization didn't make all men equal,
        Samuel Colt did"

        Comment

        • ironhat
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2004
          • 2553
          • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
          • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

          #5
          Thanks for the input, Bruce. I'm trying to keep this pretty primative and I thought that the pivots that c.man suggested would work. Unfortunately, my ingenuity with the door stiles and rails on this door - standing them on edge (see photo) - would require a large door to case frame gap. So, here's where I'm experimenting right now. I bought a youth size belt at Wally World for $7 and I'm trying some leather hinges. The prelims are good as long as I keep the securement screws close to the fold line. I made three relief cuts on the back of the leather about 3/32" apart. I made a similar application years ago on a coop door using the sidewall of a tire. I revisited the house 12 years later and the hinge was still good. Like I said, 'similar application'. When I get this thing done I'll post on the "Completed Project" forum - it's starting to bug me and it's supposed to be a more simple build, being distressed!
          Blessings,
          Chiz

          Comment

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