When figuring out sizes for parts and pieces to a project, there are a few numbers that may save you time and money.
Based on a 48" wide sheet, I use the divisible numbers to 48 as rip sizes. For example, for multiple drawers, carcass ends, floors, dividers, and shelves, I use the closest number as a cutting factor to maximize the stock. For floors and ends I use 23 7/8" for a rip cut as an 1/8" saw kerf should split a sheet evenly.
For dividers, they would be less to compensate for a rabbeted back, but still fall within the 23 7/8".
For shelves, ripping 11 7/8" will yield four rips per sheet.
For drawer parts, the cuts would be 3 7/8", 5 7/8", 7 7/8", to give an equivalent of 4", 6" and 8" which are multiples up to 24" or 48".
For wider rips to yield 3 would be 15 7/8"
For crosscutting to get four, 23 7/8", to get three, 31 7/8". For panel heights for kitchen cabinets with full ends, this size is too short. But for ones with loose toe kicks, or using a 4" base of some type, this size falls within ends that will work in cabinets that will finish at 34 1/2".
These numbers kind of get stuck in the planning. There are times when the sizes come out to be whatever they have to be and you are left with an odd size. What helps is to make a drawing showing how all the parts come out of the sheet in order to get the best yield. Planning to cut the largest pieces first may cut your waste factor.
Checking the sheets for exact width and length prior to this sizing method, and having a 1/8" kerf or less on the saw blade is critical.
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Based on a 48" wide sheet, I use the divisible numbers to 48 as rip sizes. For example, for multiple drawers, carcass ends, floors, dividers, and shelves, I use the closest number as a cutting factor to maximize the stock. For floors and ends I use 23 7/8" for a rip cut as an 1/8" saw kerf should split a sheet evenly.
For dividers, they would be less to compensate for a rabbeted back, but still fall within the 23 7/8".
For shelves, ripping 11 7/8" will yield four rips per sheet.
For drawer parts, the cuts would be 3 7/8", 5 7/8", 7 7/8", to give an equivalent of 4", 6" and 8" which are multiples up to 24" or 48".
For wider rips to yield 3 would be 15 7/8"
For crosscutting to get four, 23 7/8", to get three, 31 7/8". For panel heights for kitchen cabinets with full ends, this size is too short. But for ones with loose toe kicks, or using a 4" base of some type, this size falls within ends that will work in cabinets that will finish at 34 1/2".
These numbers kind of get stuck in the planning. There are times when the sizes come out to be whatever they have to be and you are left with an odd size. What helps is to make a drawing showing how all the parts come out of the sheet in order to get the best yield. Planning to cut the largest pieces first may cut your waste factor.
Checking the sheets for exact width and length prior to this sizing method, and having a 1/8" kerf or less on the saw blade is critical.
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