Router Table Finish

[steve-norrell]

I am building a router table to attach to the rails of my BT3100. In a previous post we talked about what to use for the table. I settled on baltic birch, two pieces of 3/4 glued together.

Now I have a question about what finish to use. I would like to use water-based poly, but I am afraid that it won't produce a hard enough finish. I prefer the water-based finish because it is relatively odorless (nice now that the house is closed up for winter) and dries quickly. What about an oil-based poly or something called oil-based exterior "spar" poly?

As usual, all suggestions are welcome. Regards, Steve

[cabinetman]

The "table" you're talking about, is it the table top you are asking about?
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[steve-norrell]

The "table" you're talking about, is it the table top you are asking about?
.

Yes. I am referring to the upper surface. It is alreadly inletted for the router lift plate and a miter channel and t-slots.

I will seal the under surface with the same stuff I use on the top, but I won't worry as much about its smoothness. I chose the birch ply simply because I had some.

Regards, Steve

[cgallery]

I've often wondered what would happen if one used CA glue as a finish for an application sucj as this. I don't know how much odor it would create, and I have no idea how difficult it would be to apply. But I do imagine it would be pretty durable. Maybe if I have time this weekend I'll experiement a little bit. But some CA glue and then top-coated w/ Johnson's paste wax would be what I'd be experimenting with.

[cabinetman]

My first choice would be to use a laminate like Formica. I would use one with what's called a "textured" or "suede" finish (depending on the brand). It has a slight "texture", which makes it very slippery, not to be confused with a gloss mica. The gloss is so slick it will create a resistance. You can feel the difference by rubbing two of the same surfaces together.
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[cgallery]

My first choice would be to use a laminate like Formica. I would use one with what's called a "textured" or "suede" finish (depending on the brand). It has a slight "texture", which makes it very slippery, not to be confused with a gloss mica. The gloss is so slick it will create a resistance. You can feel the difference by rubbing two of the same surfaces together.
.

I think he is already done w/ machining, though, which means it may be nearly impossible to add additional thickness at this point.

[eezlock]

router table finish

If you are not going to install a laminate top, I would use a couple of good coats of shellac or spar varnish, or lacquer. After drying well, wax and buff
a couple of times...makes a nice smooth, slick finish, I did that to mine it works good for me. eezlock

[Sugarman]

My router table is 100% MDF (brutally heavy) and I finished it with Resisthane. The top has several coats. I then coated it with Johnson's paste wax. it is only a few months old but so far it has worked out well and looks good. A couple of the drawer fronts were MDF that came from HD, those turned out a little blotchy (there were a few threads about this previously) but a couple coats of wax seemed to make it much less noticeable.

[steve-norrell]

Thanks for the advice -- as usual it is a great help.

Cabinetman and cgallery: I did not opt for the laminated top right from the beginning and the opening for the lift plate, t-slots and miter channel are already cut. I had considered phenolic coated plywood (as from Woodcraft), but didn't want to pay the shipping costs.

eezlock: How does the lacquer hold up to scratches? I did a small test piece with three coats of spar urethane finish and it turned out very smooth but I don't know how durable it will be.

Sugarman: Can I assume that Resisthane will be similar to spar urethane?

Added note: I am also experimenting with a "glass bedding compound" that I used in my gunstock-making days. It produces a very smooth surface but I haven't done any testing for wear or brittleness. Also, the material is considerably more expensive and it would be difficult and messy to apply to a large surface. I will report back on this experiment later.

ALL: Again, thanks for the help.

Regards, Steve

[Sugarman]

Resisthane

I'm no expert on all the finishes and have never used spar urethane but I would say it is not comparable. Someone else may know better. It is more of a water based lacquer. I heard about Resisthane on this forum and have used over a gallon in the past few months. I love it. I've used it over oil and water based stains, latex paint, crackle finishes and on tables, chairs, dressers, cabinets, wood, plywood, MDF. I've used it in high and low humidity, direct sun and cool weather and I've never been disappointed. It gives a very hard finish and resists water and most household chemicals.

[JimD]

Resisthane is rated as an acceptable kitchen cabinet finish which means it is probably more durable than most varnishes. It is also crystal clear (unless you get the white or black tinted variety). It dries so fast it is difficult to finish a large piece without spray equipment. You could probably brush a router table top. You can do a coat an hour. It will be much harder after a couple hours drying time than any varnish or poly I have used. Both seem to take up to a week to get to full hardness.

My router table top is a kitchen sink cutout - high density particle board with formica attached. The base is finished with wipe-on poly, because I had lots of it when I made the router table. It would be OK for the top if you can allow enough drying time.

Jim

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Resisthane is awesome stuff for cabinets, etc.

I can't see a point in using spar urethane. Spar urethane simply has a UV inhibitor in it. It is not necessarily more durable or tougher than regular oil based poly.

For toughness, poly is hard to beat. Oil poly is still tougher than waterbourne, though the gap closes closer and closer every year.

Quite frankly, as long as the top is smooth I can't see how this would really matter all that much. Seal it, wax it and go. It's not like a bench top that you may be pounding on or something.

Jeff (this of course coming from someone with a 100lb cast iron router table!)