Cabinet Doors

[BasementDweller]

I saw Norm making some doors one time. He had a router bit set for the rails and stiles but wanted to you a sheet good for the inside panel. I have the same situation in my current project. The problem is the sheet good is smaller than the slot created by the bit set for the panel. Thus, the sheet good is loose in the groves for the panel. Norm had some slick way to work around this problem, but I can't remember what it was.... Any one know his trick or have one of your own? Thanks for any help!



- BD

[Tarheel]

I just finished some raised panel doors using the cope and stick bit set for the rails and stiles. Although my panels do fit a little snug in the "grooves", I plan on using space balls to center the panel and keep it from rattling in the frame.

In the past I have used a round cylindrical insulation foam from Lowes. I think it is called backer rod. It is foam about 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick. just insert a couple of pieces in each rail and stile and then insert your panel. It should now be secure and not rattle in the frame.

I have also heard of folks laying down a 1/4" to 3'8" strip of silicone caulk on a piece of wax paper, let it set up 'til firm and insert that in the grooves.

HTH

Wayne

[Pappy]

Wayne, I think BD's problem is the groove is wider than the thickness of the plywood creating a gap all around the panel. What you describe is normally to take up looseness in the length and width of the panel.

Other than a filler strip in the grooves, I can't think of a solution. If you cut the strip slightly proud, glue it to the inside of the door, and plane or sand it flush it would be hard to see.

[Tarheel]

Wayne, I think BD's problem is the groove is wider than the thickness of the plywood creating a gap all around the panel. What you describe is normally to take up looseness in the length and width of the panel.

Other than a filler strip in the grooves, I can't think of a solution. If you cut the strip slightly proud, glue it to the inside of the door, and plane or sand it flush it would be hard to see.

Now that I re-read his post, I think that you are right, Pappy. My Bad!!!

A filler strip may work on the inside of the door where you wouldn't readily see it.

Sorry BasementDweller for misinterpreting your problem!

Wayne

[drumpriest]

If you just worry about it being flush at the front, you can use space balls to make that happen, when you do the glue up, just make sure that your panel is on the correct side of the space ball, and it should be pinched forward.

[cabinetman]

The thin panel problem may be solved by using a rail & stile set that cuts a rabbet in the back edge instead of a slot. This is also used for lay in glass inserts. Advantages of this method would allow the panel to be clipped in, or held in by adhesive, or a strip of trim wood. The panel could be removable, and this would compensate for a thinner panel in relation to the slot size cut of a standard set.
.

[kdaustin]

The caulk backer rod mentioned above sounds like a good idea although that stuff may be a bit on the large size. Perhaps some screen spline slid in on the back side of the panel would work. It is hollow and somewhat compressible although rather stiff.

Ken

[JimD]

If the doors will be painted, I would just run a bead of caulk around the panel before painting. If it will be clear finished, I would wedge it in a few places in the back or just ignore the gap. With typical "1/4" plywood it should only be less than 1/32 if it is pretty even front and back, less than 1/16 maximum.

There are also special rail and stile bits that cut a narrower slot and tenon. I would be a bit concerned about the variation in the 1/4 plywood making the fit still dicey but maybe they work.

I think what Norm did was to use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood and rabbett it for the width of the groove. That also makes a more solid panel.

Jim

[pecker]

You can get some edge banding tape in a species of wood similar to your panel. Apply it around the back of the panel, at the edges, to increase the panel thickness about 1/32".

If you apply it at just the last 3/8" of the panel and trim off the excess, it will never be seen.
http://www.band-itproducts.com/index...ts:wood:edging


When I made a bunch of doors using 1/4" mahogany plywood, I had to search for a set of cutters that gave the correct .200" slot, as many of them cut a .22" slot for typical "undersized" plywood. My mahogany was apparently under-undersized.

[JSUPreston]

I think what Norm did was to use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood and rabbett it for the width of the groove. That also makes a more solid panel.

Jim

Jim, now that you mention it, I think you're right. IIRC, it was a very shallow rabbit, and the rabbit was "JUST" wide enough to hide the rabbit once the panel was inserted. To the naked eye, it looked just like the panel was the correct thickness for the groove.