More Dresser / Drawer Questions

[ssmith1627]

Want to go on about this a little longer if you guys don't mind. I've kind of gone away from the Wood magazine plans for this dresser:

http://woodstore.net/dochta.html

I didn't want the clunky metal drawer slides they showed using so I cut dados into the sides and built dust frames for the drawers to move on.

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...4&id=016_G_001

I do however want to maintain the look there where you don't see the front edges of the dust frames. Just an 1/8th of an inch gap between each drawer. To do this, I'll use false fronts on the drawers to get that overlap of the front edge of the dust frames.

I've certainly made this all more difficult. This weekend I'm going to build and attach the legs and all the trim so I can better think out how the drawers will work.

But at the same time, I wanted to dovetail the drawers. Instead of using 3 sides poplar now I'm going to have a four sided box of poplar with the false front attached. Should I just do through dovetails ? I don't see the point in doing half blind if there's a false front. There will be plenty of strength between the drawer front and the false front with all that glue surface.

Just trying to think it all though. Thanks for listening.

Steve

[cabinetman]

But at the same time, I wanted to dovetail the drawers. Instead of using 3 sides poplar now I'm going to have a four sided box of poplar with the false front attached. Should I just do through dovetails ? I don't see the point in doing half blind if there's a false front. There will be plenty of strength between the drawer front and the false front with all that glue surface.

Just trying to think it all though. Thanks for listening.

Steve

The dust stops could be used as guide for the drawer. Customarily, there is a gap left at the top edge of a drawer in case there's any over filling. A tightly enclosed drawer opening could allow some air pressure problems. With a wood on wood slide detail, there would be enough restriction that the air pressure restriction/abundance, wouldn't be noticeable. The front edge of the stop would have to be at least as far back into the opening as the front of the drawer box (behind the false front).

If you plan to use DT's, no reason to not use through DT's. If you are inserting the drawer bottom into the sides and front of the box, plan out the placement of the groove. As an alternative, you could rabbet the drawer sides to accept the front and back which will leave a smooth side (no joinery showing), except for the rabbet step as seen from above the drawer.

No need to glue the false front to the box. Actually it can be a detriment in the event you damage a drawer front or have to replace one if it's glued on. It can be screwed on from the inside of the drawer box.

[LarryG]

I've certainly made this all more difficult.

On the contrary, you've made it easier, even though you have more pieces to make and assemble. Using false fronts means you've separated fitting the drawers into the carcase and the drawer fronts to the cabinet front into two independent operations. This is FAR easier than trying to get everything fitted and lined up properly without false fronts.

I don't understand your half-blind vs through DT question. Either joint will serve the same purpose, which is to keep the drawer body corners from being pulled apart as the drawer is opened and closed. Through DTs are nice on pieces where both sides of the corner are visible -- say, a blanket chest. But since your false fronts will cover half of a through DT joint, there's really no advantage to using them instead of half-blinds; what you see on the drawer sides will look essentially the same. (Here's I'm ignoring other variables like DT spacing and angles.)

I would not glue on the false fronts. Attach them with screws from inside the drawer body, so you can later tweak their alignment if necessary, or even replace one entirely in the event it cracks or gets damaged.

[ssmith1627]

Two votes for not glueing on the false fronts. Well noted. I guess I was thinking of strength over time if only screws were used. But at the same time, it hasn't been an issue with the drawers on my workbench where the fronts were attached with screws only.

On the TD vs. HB -- yes, it won't look much different from the side. I haven't had this Leigh jig very long and I've done through dovetails with pretty good success so I'm going to stick with that.

Thanks for listening guys. A lot of this is just being able to say it out loud to someone else for reassurance. Ok, yes, I admit it -- a little hand holding is nice ! haha Appreciate your time.

Steve

[JimD]

I've used maple and beech for drawers but not poplar. Should be fine but is not either real attractive or very hard. I like 1/2 BB plywood. It is mainly convenience of being able to rip sheet goods to size versus some glueup required with solid stock (unless you like a lot of waste) but birch is also harder than poplar. We do not find the plys objectionable (there are very few voids and if any show I fill them. I do not have a Leigh jig so I do half-blind dovetails on my HF jig.

Jim

[drumpriest]

I would do the dovetails, because it's great practice, and the 1% of people who know about such things may appreciate the work you've done. And the Leigh jig is just fun to use!

Jim, stop picking on Poplar!!! :-) I've found some fantastic looking pieces of poplar, and I've been known to use it in marquetry, it's not a bad wood, you just have to pick through it. I agree on the not very hard part though. Anyone know about its relative stability? A friend does many of his drawers in poplar, and hasn't had any issues thus far, but I wonder in the long hall how they'll hold up.

Steve, HB vs through.....The leigh jig is easier to use (to me anyway) when doing through, and once the front is sanded flush I don't see any reason why a through DT would be an issue. I think I'd base my decision upon which I thought would look beter.

[JimD]

Keith,

I like poplar, I am just not sure it is the best material for drawers. If you like it that's great. I am using poplar for the plantation shutters I am making now - they are painted. Picking through poplar could make it nearly as expensive as maple or birch. Poplar will work but it is mostly white but has green and black parts. It turns yellow in sunlight. I think the drawers would hold up fine but would show wear quicker than harder material. Appearance is up to the user, I prefer other materials but that is just my opinion.

Jim