Sanding Sealer Question

[SHADOWFOX]

Folks,

I am planning to use a water based gel stain on a piece that I'm building. The wood that I'm using is maple. My question is how long do you normally let the sanding sealer set before sanding it? What would yield best results?

The reason why I am applying a sanding sealer before applying the stain is to reduce the blotching normally experience when finishing maple.

Greatly appreciate any info.

Thanks!

[JimD]

I follow the directions from the manufacturer. Usually it's an hour or two for sanding sealer. If it's humid in my shop or cool, I may wait a little longer. If the surface gums up the sanding paper, I usually back off and give it a bit more time.

Jim

[Garasaki]

I'd give it a day

(if you havent read Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" you should...it addresses this, sort of, basically saying that oftentimes the manufacturer's instructions are, for lack of a better word, wrong, and you really want to make sure your prestain conditioner is really dry)

[Uncle Cracker]

Ditto what John said. It is impossible to give it too much time, but very possible to give it too little. There are so many factors that can affect drying time, so I always err to the side of caution.

[cabinetman]

There's quite a bit of information about how to prevent blotching and get an even penetration of stain. Some sealers work. On some species a thinned washcoat of shellac works too. In any case whatever is used has to be very dry. I use a wood conditioner like this. Some methods will seal to the point of prohibiting the stain or dye to do its job. Samples should be tested for the best results.

[RockyJohn]

This thread is timely for me. I am testing my planned finish for a cookbook shelf extenison on the end of my daughter's kitchen cabinets. I will be trying to match the existing cabinets a closely as I can. I am using Oak boards and Oak plywood from Home Depot. I made a mock-up with small pieces of both the hardwood and ply and started with a coat from a new can of sanding sealer. This morning I lightly sanded it with a 320 sanding sponge - possibly more than "lightly." I have some streaks of the sanding sealer showing. Did I put the SS on too thick? or Do I need to sand it more? What is the proper technique for using this stuff?

[cabinetman]

This thread is timely for me. I am testing my planned finish for a cookbook shelf extenison on the end of my daughter's kitchen cabinets. I will be trying to match the existing cabinets a closely as I can. I am using Oak boards and Oak plywood from Home Depot. I made a mock-up with small pieces of both the hardwood and ply and started with a coat from a new can of sanding sealer. This morning I lightly sanded it with a 320 sanding sponge - possibly more than "lightly." I have some streaks of the sanding sealer showing. Did I put the SS on too thick? or Do I need to sand it more? What is the proper technique for using this stuff?

There are several types of sanding sealer. You didn't say exactly what you used. In all types it should be thoroughly dry before sanding, and it may leave a chalky look.

Depending on the type you used, it would be appropriate to use the same chemical base in a top coat as you used in the sealer. IOW, if it was a lacquer based sanding sealer, use a lacquer topcoat.

[RockyJohn]

Thanks cabinetman. I'm using a can I got at lowes, and it's NOT Minwax. I'll have to check what type it is (maybe Varithane?) Dry time on the can is 2 hours. I gave it 8, and the garage is pretty dry and it was only down to about 60 degrees this morning (Colorado Springs - no rain lately to speak of).

Mainly the streaks were brush lines from the crappy chip brush I was using. It's also possible I didn't stir the can enough (or at all). Can this stuf be sprayed? Proobably what I should do, or at least use a foam brush. As I already know (better) from experience, EVERY step of the process should be done correctly.

Sorry if I stole this thread. Just seemed like a good time to ask.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

SHADOWFOX,
Depends on what sanding sealer you are using. I would not use a water based sealer, then a water based stain, then a water based finish. IMHO there will be a problem along the way, even if fully cured. Here, I like .5lb cut of blonde shellac, then a GOOD gel stain. No cheap stuff here.

Most pre-stain conditioner is a solvent, likely mineral spirits, with some form of oil, likely a linseed variant. You can easily make your own.

I personally have never had a problem with botching on maple. BTW you mention sanding, sanding to higher grits prevents stain penetration and reduces blotching.

RockyJohn,
Depends on whether you are using oil based or water based finish as to application technique. Oil based I would rag on, water based I would brush with high quality brush. No chip brush, no foam brush. Spraying is usually superior to most application techinques, but beyond the equipment and/or ability of newer woodworker.