Need Advice: Face Frame on Cabinet

[Pakaderm]

Hi,

I've build a small cabinet (a new stand for the bt) with two compartments side-by-side. This is 3/4 inch ply.

I have 1 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood cut to make the face frame. So the frame has three vertical piece and two horizontal pieces.

Since all the pieces are only 1 3/4 x 3/4, what's the best way to join them together, and then to the cabinet? Previously, with larger board, ie, 4 3/4 x 3/4, I've used biscuits. But with this small stuff how best to attach the butt joins together?

I've already cut them to length, so a lap type join will not work.

Thanks,
-Pak

[Alex Franke]

Maybe (in order of strength) face-frame biscuits, dowels or a floating tenon? If you use dowels, I'd use two for each joint.

BTW, a floating tenon can look really nice if it's tight and exposed on the outside of the joint.

[gerti]

Pocket screws.

[cabinetman]

Hi,

I've build a small cabinet (a new stand for the bt) with two compartments side-by-side. This is 3/4 inch ply.

I have 1 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood cut to make the face frame. So the frame has three vertical piece and two horizontal pieces.

Since all the pieces are only 1 3/4 x 3/4, what's the best way to join them together, and then to the cabinet? Previously, with larger board, ie, 4 3/4 x 3/4, I've used biscuits. But with this small stuff how best to attach the butt joins together?

I've already cut them to length, so a lap type join will not work.

Thanks,
-Pak

I've got three possible solutions for you. The first two are with loose splines. The first and probably the strongest for a butt joint would be an angled loose spline done with 1/4" solid wood, or plywood. The 1/4" wide cut is made across an angle of both the rail and stile, and then an oversized 1/4" spline is glued in and when dry, trimmed off. The butt edges of the mating pieces receive glue also. Here's a rough pencil sketch:

.
The next spline type is easier in that all you do is cut your mortise in the top of the stile 1 3/4" down and cut the mortise in the rail 1 3/4 in. Then cut a 1/4" spline out of solid wood or plywood 1 3/4" x 3 1/2". Glue up the mortise, spline, and butted edges, clamp and you're home.

The last is probably the easiest. Glue up the butted edges on the whole face frame Clamp up, so you can still get to the outside of the joint. Then, drill two 1/4" dowel holes, or one 3/8" dowel hole through the first and into the second piece. Then use dowels long enough (can be cut from dowel rod) that you have put some air relief grooves on the side. Apply some glue to the holes and a small amount to the dowels. Don't use too much glue. If you do, you may not get the dowels to go all the way in. Tap the dowels into the holes. This will eliminate having to measure and align dowel holes. When dry, remove clamps and you're home.

[ragswl4]

Hi,

I've build a small cabinet (a new stand for the bt) with two compartments side-by-side. This is 3/4 inch ply.

I have 1 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood cut to make the face frame. So the frame has three vertical piece and two horizontal pieces.

Since all the pieces are only 1 3/4 x 3/4, what's the best way to join them together, and then to the cabinet? Previously, with larger board, ie, 4 3/4 x 3/4, I've used biscuits. But with this small stuff how best to attach the butt joins together?

I've already cut them to length, so a lap type join will not work.

Thanks,
-Pak

I suggest this for making the frames:http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht...?PRODUCT_ID=30

Lowes carries them if you have one of those close by. You will find many other uses for this once you get one. It's an inexpensive and quick way to make face frames. You will also need some #7 fine thread pocket hole screws.

[pecker]

For a one-off project, this won't be worthwhile, but if you make a bunch like this in the future, there is a biscuit size called FF (face-frame). You need a different cutter blade for the joiner, or you can get a router bit that cuts this sized slot also.

Amazon.com Product Description
The Porter-Cable Face Frame Biscuits join material as narrow as 1-1/2 inches. Standard size 0 biscuits are too long for use in 1-1/2-inch stock, but these biscuits are 13-by-30-millimeters. With Porter-Cable's 557 Deluxe Plate Joiner and these face frame biscuits, narrow stock can be joined quickly and easily. At 5/32-inch thick, they are as thick as standard biscuits and provide plenty of strength for typical face frame construction.

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-5...0727016&sr=1-1

[Garasaki]

Whatever you choose to do, remember that face frames don't really need to be very strong - they will be reinforced when attached to the carcase, which is the true structural member of your assembly...

[radhak]

I've got three possible solutions for you...

Neat, CM! All three are great ideas, and I feel, 'to be filed for future use'. Very nicely explained.

And you got fantastic sketching skills too.

[cabinetman]

Neat, CM! All three are great ideas, and I feel, 'to be filed for future use'. Very nicely explained.

And you got fantastic sketching skills too.

Thanks for the compliments. I haven't got a grip on Sketchup yet.

[Pakaderm]

Great guys! Thanks a lot for the suggestions!

CM, for your first suggestion, how do you cut the angled mortises? On a TS using a high fench? Do you need some 45d jig to hold the wood at the right angle? Sorry for my ignorance.

-Pak

[cabinetman]

Great guys! Thanks a lot for the suggestions!

CM, for your first suggestion, how do you cut the angled mortises? On a TS using a high fench? Do you need some 45d jig to hold the wood at the right angle? Sorry for my ignorance.

-Pak

If you have a sled or a miter gauge, just cut a 45 deg support to hold the piece at a 45. Or you could make a tenoning jig like this. The angular spline gives a longer glue area and the grain direction is crossed to the rail and stile.

Or if you want to buy one, and you have a miter slot in your table for a sliding jig like this:

[drumpriest]

I use splines like that to reinforce my mitered frames.... the jig for it is called a spline miter jig...



I would suggest dowels, or pocket screws, or loose tenons. The biscuits work, but don't have near the strength. You could also use 1/2 lap joints. In short, you have many options.