end grain on trim

[Salty]

I have a 45 degree cut on a piece of baseboard that will be stained. I tried a few scraps and even with a lot of sanding, the end grain still takes a lot of stain and ends up much darker.
What can I put on the end grain prior to staining that will close up the pores and help the stain be more consistant?

Thanks.

[SwingKing]

I've always heard that using a light coat of shellac on the end grain will keep it from pulling in too much stain. Here's an article that talks about some ideas on dealing with end grain: http://www.finefurniturefinishing.com/newsletter3.html

-- Ken

[gsmittle]

I've always heard that using a light coat of shellac on the end grain will keep it from pulling in too much stain. Here's an article that talks about some ideas on dealing with end grain: http://www.finefurniturefinishing.com/newsletter3.html

-- Ken

What Ken said. My understanding is that you must sand the end again after the shellac dries. I've never tried it, though, so I could be all wet.

g.

[cabinetman]

Depending on the specie of wood, you might have to sand way past 320. You have to try on scrap first, but some woods have to go 600-800 to look good with consistent stain color. Sometimes using a sealer or shellac will keep the grain from an even staining, almost like it's working too good.

Sanding is a form of scratching. So, as you progress up to a smoother grit, you should check the grain for any predominant scratches left from coarser previous grits. FWIW.

[cork58]

Stain

I have heard of a 50% mix of wood glue and water. Never tried it but have used Kilz and had good results after sanding it with 600 grit sand paper after applying. You will have some dark spots in final result though. If it is in an area where people will examine it I would go to 1000 grit and just take your time. If it is going to be out of direct view try Kilz on a scrap.

[JimD]

Why not turn the trim back on itself? It may be too late but if you cut the end of the baseboard at 45 degrees, cut so that the face of the baseboard is longer than the back dimension, and then cut another tiny piece to mate to it, you have all long grain on the trim. It probably took me longer to type this than to make the cuts.

Jim

[cabinetman]

Why not turn the trim back on itself? It may be too late but if you cut the end of the baseboard at 45 degrees, cut so that the face of the baseboard is longer than the back dimension, and then cut another tiny piece to mate to it, you have all long grain on the trim. It probably took me longer to type this than to make the cuts.
im

That can be done and the cut is a tedious one. The long piece of the base has to be cut like an outside 45 deg, and then the return 45 deg has to be cut as its mate. This would be done on a length then the wall side gets cut off the return, at 90 deg. So the length of the return is basically the thickness of the base. The return that is cut is very narrow and has to be held down with a push stick, and be prepared to cut more than one.

There's not too many situations that a base doesn't die into another wall or window moulding, or door casing.

[Salty]

I thought about that end piece and the turned-back 45 degree. But in this case it is at the end of a base cabinet toekick. I didn't want it to be very noticeable. LOML wanted baseboard there the same as along the walls and I have learned not to argue such points.
I have some sanding sealer around here that I may try to see if that will seal the ends.

[Salty]

Here ya go. I got this tip from my brother. This is what I wanted. He suggested that 2 cuts of 22.5 degrees would put the end piece on a 45 degree angle from the long piece. Worked out great. Wasted a few pieces when the miter saw threw them against the wall and they broke but I managed to make one for each side of the kitchen. Glued them up and put strap clamps on them.
It's these little things that make the job a joy but probably nobody will ever notice them.

[cabinetman]

Here ya go. I got this tip from my brother. This is what I wanted. He suggested that 2 cuts of 22.5 degrees would put the end piece on a 45 degree angle from the long piece. Worked out great. Wasted a few pieces when the miter saw threw them against the wall and they broke but I managed to make one for each side of the kitchen. Glued them up and put strap clamps on them.
It's these little things that make the job a joy but probably nobody will ever notice them.

Cutting them at a 22 1/2 just makes it extend further, and harder to get a reference distance. At 45 deg on both pieces, you know exactly where it will end. And the wall side of the return piece would have to be cut at a 45 instead of just a 90 deg cut. Way more to go wrong.

[gslyons]

That can be done and the cut is a tedious one. The long piece of the base has to be cut like an outside 45 deg, and then the return 45 deg has to be cut as its mate. This would be done on a length then the wall side gets cut off the return, at 90 deg. So the length of the return is basically the thickness of the base. The return that is cut is very narrow and has to be held down with a push stick, and be prepared to cut more than one.

One solution for this problem is double-sided tape. after making the 45d bevel cut, tape the offcut piece back to the return along the kerf faces prior to the making 90d cut. This gives you a nice handle to prevent losing or nicking the return piece. Don't forget to use a ZCTP.

~g

[eezlock]

end grain on trim

I read some articles about finishing, one of them said to coat end grain
with boiled linseed oil, before staining. The wood will soak up less stain that
way and the end grain will be better matched to the rest of the stained piece
when dried. eezlock

[JimD]

When I have to cut a tiny piece like the return, I usually just don't cut it quite all the way through and then cut it off with a knife. Takes a little bit more time but it keeps my hands away from the blade and takes less time than tape.

Jim

[Anthony]

I thought about that end piece and the turned-back 45 degree. But in this case it is at the end of a base cabinet toekick. I didn't want it to be very noticeable. LOML wanted baseboard there the same as along the walls and I have learned not to argue such points.
I have some sanding sealer around here that I may try to see if that will seal the ends.

I must admit that i dont understand this situation, why is the 45 degree end grain visible?where does it go/end?
Im think that the front cab toekick goes to the end of the cabinet front, turns onto the cabinet side, and then the wall with the need-to-match baseboard trim?
Is this correct? If so, why is the end grain ultimately visible?
Anthony