I am trying to edge red oak plywood shelves with RO strips and am beginning to doubt whatever I have read about it in the past.
First of all (and maybe unrelated), this particular batch of RO lumber has given me too much pain : the wood kept curving after each rip cut! eg - I had this 1" thick, 7" wide, 7 feet long piece. I wanted three 2" wide strips out of it. It was not originally straight, so I clamped my 8' All-in-one to it and ripped one edge parallel to the straight edge, and repeat (with the AIO) for the other side. Then I notice that I still did not have a straight edge : there was a curve. So now I drew a straight line end-to-end down the middle, double-check that line is indeed straight and rip the stock, preserving that drawn line. Whaddya know - after the cut, that line is no longer straight
!!! Had heard of 'stress' in wood, just did not like seeing it personally 
.
Anyway, onto the real problem. My shelves are 22" wide, 14" deep. Cut the final size on the TS for sharp and straight edges. I dry fit the edging, it looks good, apart a couple of places where i could see faint light between the edging and the ply. Two 1"-wide spots. So I get to the router in my attempt to get a nice, glue-able straight edge on both pieces. I set it up to remove a 1/32" stock (have the incra, so can actually be that accurate; could not have done it with prior setup). The routing goes nicely, except that now there's longer length of gap between the hw edging and the ply-shelf ! What did I do wrong? I noted that the TS cuts had been more straight than what I got after the router.
Was this because my fence on the router does not have an extra 1/32" support on the outfeed? Or did the quirky 'stress' of this RO come back to bite me? How should I get the best 'glue-able' edge?
First of all (and maybe unrelated), this particular batch of RO lumber has given me too much pain : the wood kept curving after each rip cut! eg - I had this 1" thick, 7" wide, 7 feet long piece. I wanted three 2" wide strips out of it. It was not originally straight, so I clamped my 8' All-in-one to it and ripped one edge parallel to the straight edge, and repeat (with the AIO) for the other side. Then I notice that I still did not have a straight edge : there was a curve. So now I drew a straight line end-to-end down the middle, double-check that line is indeed straight and rip the stock, preserving that drawn line. Whaddya know - after the cut, that line is no longer straight
!!! Had heard of 'stress' in wood, just did not like seeing it personally .Anyway, onto the real problem. My shelves are 22" wide, 14" deep. Cut the final size on the TS for sharp and straight edges. I dry fit the edging, it looks good, apart a couple of places where i could see faint light between the edging and the ply. Two 1"-wide spots. So I get to the router in my attempt to get a nice, glue-able straight edge on both pieces. I set it up to remove a 1/32" stock (have the incra, so can actually be that accurate; could not have done it with prior setup). The routing goes nicely, except that now there's longer length of gap between the hw edging and the ply-shelf
! What did I do wrong? I noted that the TS cuts had been more straight than what I got after the router. Was this because my fence on the router does not have an extra 1/32" support on the outfeed? Or did the quirky 'stress' of this RO come back to bite me? How should I get the best 'glue-able' edge?
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