Saw Router Table / Cabinet Progress

[ssmith1627]

Hey guys, slowing moving along here:

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...lbum01&page=13

Trying to decide now on the dust collection. I can do it on top at the fence like I did on my old router table. But I'm trying to decide on the below the table portion -- obviously plenty of dust ends up there.

My idea is to use a couple of small doors to close off the front and cut a hole in the side to a DC port. Think that's the best route to go ?

I've ordered a shark guard for the saw. So my plan is a quick disconnect from the shark guard to move that DC line over to the router table fence. That'd give me dust collection both above and below the table.

Appreciate your feedback.

Steve

[BT3 WOODOG]

I like it!!! Are You going to build a cabnet base for the saw?

[Ken Massingale]

Looking real good, Steve.
I prefer DC top and bottom. I installed a 2 1/2" port on the fence I made, and fab'ed a housing for the router underneath out of sheetmetal. It has a funnel bottom with a 2 1/2" DC port attached. It's basically like the Woodpecker enclosures, but probably thinner.

Practically gets all the stuff.

[williwatt]

I was looking at your picture of your BT3 saw. Is that a piece of Dexion or similar material on your fence? How is it attached?

Bill

[ssmith1627]

Hey guys.

I'm not gonna build a cabinet under the saw base. I probably should've just done that but instead I built that shelf. This is all very roughly based on the plans from ShopNotes for a saw cabinet / router table / outfeed table. I just left out the cabinets under the saw and changed how the top was made to some degree. This makes the whole thing fairly easy to move if I do move to a new home in the next year or two. Modular. I can disconnect the router table cabinet, disconnect the outfeed table top / cabinet, etc. Still gives me plenty of storage and takes away the floor space that was taken up by a separate router table before.

I like the idea of the sheet metal enclosure around the router itself. That's a very interesting thought. Do you have pics handy of that Ken ??

On the BT3 fence, I had a piece of aluminum angle -- really like a shelf bracket type thing with all the holes in it. That just was a quick way of attaching featherboards and such. Didn't take much effort at all and there were no clamps in the way of what you were trying to do.

With the saw set up how it is now -- my new saw -- I have 45" of rip capacity and I can rip board about 8 feet long without any obstruction. I'm pretty happy with how it's coming together.

Steve