Another router table question

[Anna]

With respect to the router's power plug:

Is it a bad idea to put a power socket inside the cavity where the router is going to be, then wire it to a switch on the side of the cabinet? I'm thinking the dust might accumulate inside the socket (unless I can find a single outlet one instead of the usual 2), but I've seen others do this so maybe my concerns are not valid?

The cavity where the router will be in is going to be enclosed (has a door).

Thanks.

[radhak]

Mine has something similar, and I don't like it : the problem for me is that the power cord of the router remains fully inside the small box ('cavity') with the router, which means it has to be wound up pretty severely (itself a concern), despite which it occupies some space - causing problems with dust collection (it collects dust inside!) by blocking air flow.

I have serious designs of pulling that cord out with the socket. Have to cut the metal housing a bit...

[Thom2]

I'm thinking the dust might accumulate inside the socket (unless I can find a single outlet one instead of the usual

just stick one of those child-proof plastic dingawabobs in the unused outlet ... it doesn't get much cheaper than a standard duplex outlet.

[Anna]

Mine has something similar, and I don't like it : the problem for me is that the power cord of the router remains fully inside the small box ('cavity') with the router, which means it has to be wound up pretty severely (itself a concern), despite which it occupies some space - causing problems with dust collection (it collects dust inside!) by blocking air flow.

I have serious designs of pulling that cord out with the socket. Have to cut the metal housing a bit...

Uhm, is there a less drastic approach? What I'm thinking of doing, with respect to the cabinet design, is:

1. have a 1/8" gap under the door to allow air in (for the suction),
2. there's a first backing that's ideally solid (plywood), also with 1/8" gap in the bottom,
3. the cabinet back with a fitting for the vacuum.

The idea, as stolen from Hylton, is to use the Venturi effect to improve the dust collection. I have no idea how well that will work, but it sounds pretty good in theory. (I wonder how much noise that's going to produce.)

I'm thinking I can make a smallish notch in the bottom of the first backing (there must be a better term than that) that will fit my router cable. The problem with that is that my router is going to be basically stuck inside the router table. Unless I don't glue the backing, but that will still make it a pain to take it off and put it back on.

Maybe I can make a little "door" for the cable with weather stripping or something? Using velcro from the inside?

Or there's probably a much simpler way of doing this and I'm over-analyzing as usual.

[Anna]

just stick one of those child-proof plastic dingawabobs in the unused outlet ... it doesn't get much cheaper than a standard duplex outlet.

Aww, I was starting to go on a whole Rube Goldberg route. That's a really nice and simple solution to the dust. Thanks.

What do you think of having the entire router cable inside the box and crowding things? And the effects on dust collection as Radhak pointed out?

[LinuxRandal]

I was thinking of running the router cord outback, close to the dust collection on mine. But since I used to work in a hardware store, besides the inexpensive child proof option, they do have:
1 Single outlets
2. Switched outlets (secondary safety measure)
3. Outlet that are considered "designer" (they have a sliding plate)


I keep thinking if I run the cord out, I have less to interfer with the dust collection.

Still trying to figure out which drawer design I want to use.

[Anna]

Still trying to figure out which drawer design I want to use.

Which plan are you basing your table on? The simplest bit storage drawer design I've found is in the Kreg DVD on building router tables. It just uses a screw as a pivot.

I'm now leaning towards running the cords out through the back. How do you keep it sealed, though, so that the vacuum works?

[gwyneth]

Have you re-looked at the table chapters of "Router Magic"? Lots of helpful information--and unbelievably, almost no duplication from "Woodworking With The Router" (new edition).

[Anna]

Have you re-looked at the table chapters of "Router Magic"? Lots of helpful information--and unbelievably, almost no duplication from "Woodworking With The Router" (new edition).

Yep, that's where I got the idea about the Venturi effect. I only read the cabinet-making part, though, because I already have a top and fence. Is there any particular information in the book that you think may be helpful? I haven't delved much into the jigs yet. I figured I'll build them when I need them.

[Pappy]

Mine is based on the NYW plans. I have a switch/plug from a BT for power with the plug in the router cavity. The door has holes in the bottom to allow air flow in. Collection is fair but I have some jigs stored in there, as well as the router cord, and my DC port is only 1 1/2".

[LarryG]

(unless I can find a single outlet one instead of the usual 2)

There are 20A simplex receptacles, readily available at Lowe's Depot. Often used for circuits for things like refrigerators, dishwashers, etc.

The suggestion for a switched outlet is good, too. Just be sure to get one that's rated for a motor load.

[Thom2]

I didn't even think to mention this last night.

I think what I"m going to do on my table is to put a standard electrical box in each end so the switches are accessible from the outside (of course), but rather than either putting another box inside the cabinet, or having hookups outside. I'm going to come out of the back of the switch box (inside the cabinet) with a short pigtail from an extension cord.

[LinuxRandal]

Which plan are you basing your table on? The simplest bit storage drawer design I've found is in the Kreg DVD on building router tables. It just uses a screw as a pivot.

I'm now leaning towards running the cords out through the back. How do you keep it sealed, though, so that the vacuum works?

My own plan (base on scraps and images from others). I never saw the Kreg dvd but considered it, until my father got a free one and bought one, and neither dvd played correctly. Kreg sent out replacements, that were similar.

Right now, I was planning on getting some rubber grommets, or using a piece of rubber from a gasket kit, to seal around the cord. I don't figure it will be airtight, because you do need some air inflow for full effect.

[LarryG]

I don't figure it will be airtight, because you do need some air inflow for full effect.

In a recent issue of either WOOD or ShopNotes, I forget which, one of the front-of-magazine "quick tips" was to have an inlet as large as the outlet, on the opposite side of the box, to get the maximum amount of air flowing.

Thinking about this, I realized that it made perfect sense: you set up this big river of moving air, as big as you can make it, and any debris that falls into it is instantly swept away. It's the same principle as for the main DC system itself: minimize resistance, maximize air flow. I'm going to incorporate this into my new router table, currently in the planning stage.

(IINM, the person who submitted this tip was the winner of the "tip of the month" award for that issue.)

[Anna]

In a recent issue of either WOOD or ShopNotes, I forget which, one of the front-of-magazine "quick tips" was to have an inlet as large as the outlet, on the opposite side of the box, to get the maximum amount of air flowing.

Thinking about this, I realized that it made perfect sense: you set up this big river of moving air, as big as you can make it, and any debris that falls into it is instantly swept away. It's the same principle as for the main DC system itself: minimize resistance, maximize air flow. I'm going to incorporate this into my new router table, currently in the planning stage.

(IINM, the person who submitted this tip was the winner of the "tip of the month" award for that issue.)

I think you probably want the inlet to be smaller than the outlet. It will increase the speed - making it easier to "sweep" the debris into the outlet - because the same mass of air will have to move but through a smaller area. If the inlet is too big, then the speed will be low and not as effective in dust collection (for the router table).

For the DC, the hose sizes are big and the air speed is low, as opposed to a shop vac where the hose size is small and the air speed is higher. If I'm remembering correctly, the advantage of the DC is in the volume of debris it can remove close to the source, like the table saw, but it won't work so well as a shop vac.

I don't own a DC and this is all speculative on my part. I've never built a router table either (or air filter, where the same principles would apply), so what I said in the previous paragraph is purely speculative, too.