Finishing pine

[big tim]

My daughter an son in law bought a huge slab of pine, 2.5" to 3.25" thick cut a piece off to use as a top for an end table for their cottage. They have enough to make another end table and a coffee table. I sanded it for them and put the "legs" onto the top.
They want to finish it with poly. My question is: should the first apply a sealer?
Thanks for all your sage advice that I know will be forthcoming.

Tim

[Ken Massingale]

It will definitely want to be sealed. A couple of coats of Zinnser Sealcoat will save a lot of grief when applying the poly.

That's a nice chunk of Pine, BTW. I'd like to see a pic when finished.

[big tim]

It wi......I'd like to see a pic when finished.

Will do and thanks for the advise, Ken.

Tim

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Being pine I would seal it.

[Black wallnut]

I'd seal it with POLY! Pine will absorb a lot of finish, which is a good thing IMHO. It is far better to have a finish that is in the wood than simply sitting on the surface. You could start with a wipe on and flood it on for a half hour, then wipe it dry. Wait the first coat cure time and consider it sealed.

Great looking table BTW!

[Ken Massingale]

I'd seal it with POLY! Pine will absorb a lot of finish, which is a good thing IMHO. It is far better to have a finish that is in the wood than simply sitting on the surface. You could start with a wipe on and flood it on for a half hour, then wipe it dry. Wait the first coat cure time and consider it sealed.

Great looking table BTW!

Sealcoat penetrates which is why it is such an excellent sealer. From the Zinsser site:
"SealCoat offers the timesaving versatility of refined shellac in a pre-mixed 2 lb. cut 100% wax-free formula. It’s the perfect sanding sealer because it penetrates the surface, dries quickly, gives a rich tone to wood surfaces and since it contains no waxes or stearates, SealCoat is guaranteed to be compatible with oil-base polyurethanes, acrylic finishes, lacquers, catalyzed finishes and varnishes. "

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I agree. I would first seal with shellac. If durability is an issue then follow shellac with poly. sealcoat is wax free so no problems with Poly over this shellac.

I don't normally "seal" my projects, but given pine I believe shellac will seal the knots which can generate rosin well after finishing.

[Daryl]

I use BLO on pine as a seal coat, it gives a nice golden glow to the wood. Then I usually use poly as a top coat.
I have a suggestion for your table, chamfer the floor end of the legs so they aren't as likely to splinter when moving the table across the floor.

[drumpriest]

One more vote for shellac to seal this one. Top coat with whatever you like.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I use BLO on pine as a seal coat, it gives a nice golden glow to the wood. Then I usually use poly as a top coat.

Even fully cured BLO will not seal wood pores or knots. If BLO is used, I would allow to cure fully for a few days, then apply . . . . . you guessed it. Shellac.