Attaching face frames?

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  • ragswl4
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 1559
    • Winchester, Ca
    • C-Man 22114

    #16
    Originally posted by capncarl
    I attached face frames to a simular cabinet rebuild by using 10-24 threaded rods. About one inch of one end of the threaded rod was bent 90 degrees and inserted in a shelf bracket hole. A 2x4 was used on the outside of the frame to pull the face to the cabinet. A 1/4 inch hole was drilled in the 2x4 for each threaded rod to insert through, a washer and a nut was run tight, pulling the frame against the cabinet. Several set ups were required, but it was inexpensive and the materials can be reused for other jobs.

    good luck

    Great idea. I can see that being useful in many circumstances. Gonna save that one!
    RAGS
    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
    sigpic

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    • Anna
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2006
      • 728
      • CA, USA.
      • BT3100

      #17
      Originally posted by capncarl
      I attached face frames to a simular cabinet rebuild by using 10-24 threaded rods. About one inch of one end of the threaded rod was bent 90 degrees and inserted in a shelf bracket hole. A 2x4 was used on the outside of the frame to pull the face to the cabinet. A 1/4 inch hole was drilled in the 2x4 for each threaded rod to insert through, a washer and a nut was run tight, pulling the frame against the cabinet. Several set ups were required, but it was inexpensive and the materials can be reused for other jobs.
      That is a clever idea. Thanks! I think I know what to do now.

      Anna

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      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #18
        Originally posted by capncarl
        I attached face frames to a simular cabinet rebuild by using 10-24 threaded rods. About one inch of one end of the threaded rod was bent 90 degrees and inserted in a shelf bracket hole. A 2x4 was used on the outside of the frame to pull the face to the cabinet. A 1/4 inch hole was drilled in the 2x4 for each threaded rod to insert through, a washer and a nut was run tight, pulling the frame against the cabinet. Several set ups were required, but it was inexpensive and the materials can be reused for other jobs.

        good luck

        I have a few questions on your procedure. If you say you bent a 1" 90* at the end for the shelf clip holes, are the holes drilled all the way through the end. For a finished end, what happens? A 10-24 is smaller in diameter than a 1/4" shelf clip hole, doesn't the pressure and threads distort the shape of the hole? How does having the rod on one side of the end, keep the pressure even on the FF? Doesn't it pull towards one side? With using the rods, what else is used for the top and bottom of the FF?

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        • cbrown
          Established Member
          • Feb 2006
          • 116
          • Massachusetts
          • BT3100

          #19
          So in your picture the FF is aligned but not attached? Wouldn't the Kreg right-angle clamp (and then flush-cut plugs for the pocket holes) work?

          Chris

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          • JimD
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 4187
            • Lexington, SC.

            #20
            I have a 16 gauge finish nailer, 18 gauge brad nailer and 24 gauge pin nailer. The 24 gauge is much less noticable and holds surprisingly well. It is by far the simpliest way to do this and no more expensive than the number of clamps you would need. I like my Bostitch and recommend it but if you don't want to spend around $100, the Harbor Freight should work if it will use a long enough pin and cost around half as much. You want to check on the pin capacity. The Bostitch is 1 3/16 inch so you would only have 3/8 to 7/16 penetration into the case assuming 3/4 to 13/16 face frame. That is marginal but would probably work well enough to get the glue to set. Some pin nailers are only 1 inch (like the Porter Cable) and I doubt it would give you enough penetration. More than my Bostitch would be better. You could easily hide the pin nail holes with putty - you would want to fill them either before or after finishing to make them less apparent. With a good color match, they would be pretty hard to find. You could also use an 18 gauge brad nailer and it would be easily to get one that will use a long enough brad but you will have to get a good color match on the putty because the holes are a lot bigger. I wouldn't recommend a finish nailer - holes are too big and a brad nailer would work better.

            I've done a lot of screws with plugs of the same wood and I think it looks OK but would be more visible than brad nails with decently match putty. All you would need is a plug cutter, however, and some drill bits. I do not see the point of biscuits. They would make a stronger joint but will not pull the face frame against the case.

            Jim

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