Applying plastic laminate to a u-shaped bar top

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  • bmuir
    Forum Newbie
    • Jul 2006
    • 63
    • Rochester Hills, MI
    • BT3100

    #1

    Applying plastic laminate to a u-shaped bar top

    The bar top is 96 inches long x 12.5 inches wide with wings that are 35 inches long from front of the bar top to the back of the wing.

    I plan on applying plastic laminate to the top.

    Do I cut the piece of laminate oversize in a u shape or cut an oversized rectangle and router out the inside piece and then trim the edges?

    Thanks for the help.

    Bill
    So little time, so much wood!
  • Uncle Cracker
    The Full Monte
    • May 2007
    • 7091
    • Sunshine State
    • BT3000

    #2
    Ideally, if you can cut the whole thing out with a 1/8" overhang all around, that's the best. Be sure to measure twice and cut once. You might also consider just taping down the piece and tracing the outline from underneath with a sharpie marker, and then adding the 1/8". This will allow for any deviations from true square that might exist. Use sticks or dowels every 12" to facilitate placement during glue-down, then roll the heck out of it, and trim with a router when the glue dries.

    Comment

    • atgcpaul
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 4055
      • Maryland
      • Grizzly 1023SLX

      #3
      Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
      Ideally, if you can cut the whole thing out with a 1/8" overhang all around, that's the best. Be sure to measure twice and cut once. You might also consider just taping down the piece and tracing the outline from underneath with a sharpie marker, and then adding the 1/8". This will allow for any deviations from true square that might exist. Use sticks or dowels every 12" to facilitate placement during glue-down, then roll the heck out of it, and trim with a router when the glue dries.
      You can also put the Sharpie through the hole of a fender washer and use the
      washer as a roller bearing to automatically set the line 1/4" (or whatever) away
      from the edge. I know I'd trace it out, get distracted, and forget to add the
      1/8" later and screw it up.

      Paul

      Comment

      • Larryl
        Established Member
        • Jan 2004
        • 284
        • Lorena, TX, USA.
        • Grizzly G0478 Hybrid

        #4
        Originally posted by atgcpaul
        You can also put the Sharpie through the hole of a fender washer and use the
        washer as a roller bearing to automatically set the line 1/4" (or whatever) away
        from the edge. I know I'd trace it out, get distracted, and forget to add the
        1/8" later and screw it up.

        Paul
        What a great idea! I never cease to be amazed at the wealth of knowledge on this forum.
        I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken.

        Comment

        • cabinetman
          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
          • Jun 2006
          • 15216
          • So. Florida
          • Delta

          #5
          Your best bet for success (the first time) is to use the 1/16" laminate not the thinner 1/32". cut a rectangular sheet allowing for a minimum of 1/4" overhang along the whole outter edge.

          Use a solvent based contact cement for both surfaces. When ready to apply, check both surfaces for debris. Use at a minimum 1/2" dowels spaced close enough to keep any part of the sheet from touching. Start in the center of the sheet after positioning, and carefully slide out one dowel at a time until you can press touch the sheet down. Then remove the dowels from that point outward pressing down the sheet from the middle of the contact area out, to remove the air. Then roll down the sheet, or use a wood block and a hammer to tap it down.

          Then use a router trim bit that has a bearing and make sure the bearing is at a depth to ride on a smooth edge, and note any deviations that the bearing will find. Make sure yoiu do this in a well ventilated area.
          .

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