refinish on old kitchen table

[Oreofeeder]

Our kitchen eating table is 20 years old. Some of the finish is removed thanks to my son building models on it and spilling paint thinner. The finish was removed down to the bare wood.

I guess I need to strip the top and re-stain and apply a clear coat.

what is recommend for clear coat on an oak table top used for eating?

thank you

[cabinetman]

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

If it were mine, I would use an oil base stain, then an oil base polyurethane in the sheen you want. Let each coat completely dry. You could brush it on or wipe it on. If you're not familiar with the procedures, ask away and we'll try to help.
.

[gsmittle]

What about using an epoxy bar finish?

g.

[Ken Massingale]

As CM said, poly is a good choice for table tops. It's as food safe as most except shellac when completely cured. Still won't last if someone spills spirits on it tho.

And welcome to the forum.

[Uncle Cracker]

A resin finish is stain and spill resistant, although it's expensive and will scratch. Scratches can usually be polished out. The trick is to get the activator thoroughly mixed with the resin, as weak spots will otherwise result. C-man's advice is good, too, especially in the looks department, but won't take quite as much of a pounding as a thick resin coat.

[Oreofeeder]

thanks. Ill try the oil based poly.

[JimD]

My oak table is clear finished with oil based poly. It's held up for about 20 years so far (used daily).

Jim

[brecklundin]

Finally something I can comment on!!

I have been restoring antique furniture since I was a kid (antiques = family biddnes.) For my personal use furniture and counter-tops, I prefer tung oil finishes. Even for kitchen tables and counter tops. Actually I prefer the hybrid water-based tung oil finish. One of my favorites is a product called Waterlox (link to their website). Just follow the directions and it works great. Extremely durable and easy to use...plus it's food safe.

If not using a tung oil finish, for a daily use table or desk that has little need to preserve the patina, I'll take it down to bare wood then use anywhere from 10-15 coats of Minwax Poly. Do the coat-watch it dry---sand---coat--watchitdry...dance until you get the level of smooooothness you like.

Also a company called Howards makes EXCELLENT products for staining and refinishing. They have a really sweet kit to basically restore the finish on a piece by polishing the existing finish. It's a two step liquid grit polish system. I used it a year ago to restore a whole c1880s era cherry bedroom set. The best part is it actually removes the surface build up and then because its an abrasive, leaves a super smoooth finish w/o removing the old finish or affecting the patina. Have used this system on all manner of finishes from lacquer to poly with the same results. Here is a link Howard's Restore-A-Shine

Ya know, you "might" be able to avoid any stripping at all. Howards also has a product called Restore-A-Finish....basically it dissolves some of the old finish and as you use it the remaining finish sort of spreads around the piece. I have often been able to get a piece back to a decent point w/o needing to strip down to nekkid wood. Here is a link to that option:

Howard's Restore-A-Finish

Hope something helps!!

[Oreofeeder]

great suggestions, thanks. Ill go the poly route. This table as broad swaths of finish and stain removed from my son spilling paint thinner or alcohol on the table so its a strip, stain and finish project. I used Howards nicely on my antiques also, but this table is beyond what Howards can do.
thanks again