Wood moisture question

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  • Ingjr
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2007
    • 22
    • Spring Hill, FL
    • 3000 and 3100

    #1

    Wood moisture question

    Just picked up 300bd.ft. of Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) for a workbench I'm going to be building. Measured the moisture and it came in under 7%. Should I still let the wood acclimate to the shop moisture before milling it to size? Going to be laminating the top 4" thick by 30" across. Don't want to screw it up. I'll be cutting it so as to face glue 1 3/4" by 4" boards face to face. Any advice to experience on this would be appreciated. BTW, got both a 14" bandsaw and a couple of BT3's. Which would be preferable to do the ripping with before jointing/planing?
  • eddy merckx
    Established Member
    • Mar 2006
    • 359
    • Western WA
    • Shop Fox Cabinet

    #2
    Hi

    I think 7% should be fine. Can't imagine that you're going to get much wood movement with that much glue surface.

    My experience is that you want your wood to have as smooth a surface on edge as possible in order to eliminate some handwork after the glue up. That is a lot of surface area to hand plane or sand. Your BT3 should be able to rip that stuff as long as you use a sharp 24 t ripping blade. If you haven't worked with Jatoba before, it is really hard but cuts OK. Don't be surprised if you get some burning. Also, make sure to back up your cross cuts because Jatoba is splinterey.

    That should be a gorgeous workbench. Make sure to post photos when you're finished.

    Eddy

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    • Ingjr
      Forum Newbie
      • Feb 2007
      • 22
      • Spring Hill, FL
      • 3000 and 3100

      #3
      Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you all posted as to the progress. Probably take me the better part of the summer to finish it.

      Comment

      • scmhogg
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2003
        • 1839
        • Simi Valley, CA, USA.
        • BT3000

        #4
        Eddy,

        You might want to consider drilling several holes in the to-be-laminated boards to allow you to use lengths of threaded rod, washers and nuts to help in your glue up and to hold them together afterward. Drill the end boards with a forstener to make room for the nut and washer. Cover with a contrasting plug.

        I have used this technique on several large cutting boards that get wet frequently. So far so good.

        Steve
        I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand Russell

        Comment

        • Jeffrey Schronce
          Veteran Member
          • Nov 2005
          • 3822
          • York, PA, USA.
          • 22124

          #5
          Originally posted by Ingjr
          Just picked up 300bd.ft. of Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba) for a workbench I'm going to be building. Measured the moisture and it came in under 7%. Should I still let the wood acclimate to the shop moisture before milling it to size? Going to be laminating the top 4" thick by 30" across. Don't want to screw it up. I'll be cutting it so as to face glue 1 3/4" by 4" boards face to face. Any advice to experience on this would be appreciated. BTW, got both a 14" bandsaw and a couple of BT3's. Which would be preferable to do the ripping with before jointing/planing?
          That is going to be an awesome (and very heavy) workbench. I am working on a monster of a bench out of scrap wood (walnut, QS oak and ash). The top is a touch over 2" thick x 30" wide and is crazy heavy.

          Where are you located? 7% is pretty dry if you are working in FL or something, however as noted you have a ton of glue surface area and movement is pretty unlikely, particularly after you seal it.

          If you have a 15" planer or access to one, simply laminate (2) 15" sections and send them through the planer. Then glue up the two flat slabs. Saves a lot of hand planing or sanding.

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